Touring Models Road King, Road King Custom, Road King Classic, Road Glide, Street Glide, Electra Glide, Electra Glide Classic, and Electra Glide Ultra Classic bikes.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Found One

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 03:57 AM
  #1  
SugsPa's Avatar
SugsPa
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 945
Likes: 121
From: Where The Bluegrass Grows
Default Found One

I finally found the OTHER bike I like. The first one I liked (actually loved) had a Stage 3 or 4 kit and HD would not warranty it, so I found another I like (2007 Ultra Classic) but I have a question to ask ya, the riders, who are twisting the throttle everyday. On my second choice bike, when I test rode it and was shifting from 3rd into 4th, the bike popped real loud and almost felt like it came through the fuel injection unit on it. The bike, from what I gather is considered a Stage 1 bike with V&H pipes, each cylinder has its own pipe, they don't flow together. And it has a K&N air cleaner and supposedly has been "remapped". The outside air temp was around 40 deg F.
When I brought the bike back, I told the salesman about it and told him I wanted a tech to ride the bike and make sure that it was running normally. We went back to the service desk and talked to a couple guys at the desk and I explained what happened. They told me the bike was just cold. However; I would think that a fuel injected engine would not do that. I could see it doing that if it had a carb. I didn't give it any warm up time before taking off, but still, is that right. What do ya think about it? Should I be "skeered" of it? Or tell them they don't get a check from me till I get a check from the tech. I seen some dyno figures on the bike (I guess they are measured from rear wheel?). It was 90 ft lbs on torque and 76 hp. Don't know if that is good or bad? I thought the bike was supposed to have 92.6 lbs of torque, but don't know if thats at the rear wheel? Thanks,

SugsPa
 
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 04:07 AM
  #2  
emwolb's Avatar
emwolb
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,413
Likes: 17
From: eastern oklahoma
Default

one easy way to tell if the motor is warm enough to take out for a ride is to touch the cylinder head fins on the right side of the bike while it's warming up. when it gets almost too hot to touch, you're ready to go. it could have popped a bit because it wasn't warmed up i suppose. you might be better off finding one that hasn't been fiddled with, just my opinion.
 
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 05:29 AM
  #3  
SpiderPig's Avatar
SpiderPig
Stellar HDF Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,036
Likes: 65
From: Earth
Default

Go back and take it out on another ride after it is good and warm. See if the issue re appears. Might have been cold or could be a tuning issue. Only way to know for sure.
 
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 05:43 AM
  #4  
FDHOG's Avatar
FDHOG
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,275
Likes: 241
From: Highlands, NJ
Default

My RKC has a great tune, but when the temps are cold outside(below 45), I will get an occasional "pop" if I blip the throttle, until she gets up to normal temp. Could be anything, Lose exhaust gaskets, muffler clamps, Tune etc. Let the bike get fully warm---200 deg.
As far as your dyno #'s. If it's a 103 those are good for a stage 1. It's what I'm getting.
If it's a 96, they're excellent.
 
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 05:50 AM
  #5  
Shakeydeal's Avatar
Shakeydeal
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,826
Likes: 1
From: Lynchburg, Va
Default

Even fuel injected bikes won't run optimally until warmed up. Mine will pop occassionally until it reaches a certain temp.

Shakey
 
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 05:51 AM
  #6  
grbrown's Avatar
grbrown
Club Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,896
From: Bedford UK
Default

My Buell Firebolt doesn't like the cold and takes a long time to warm up. On colder days it pops even on longer rides. It is a function of the very lean running modern EFI bikes have to be set up for to meet current emissions regulations. Assuming everything else is OK, it can be cured by adjusting air/fuel ratios and it is a surprise it wasn't sorted on the dyno.

The 92.6 TQ you mention is in the brochure! Your 90 at the dyno sounds good.
 
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 05:54 AM
  #7  
IndyClassic's Avatar
IndyClassic
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 6
From: Kingman, AZ
Default

Guys above have answered best, let it warm a bit and ride.

Numbers seem good and yes hp/torque is measured at the rear wheel. What would bother me is the "remapped" ECM. Not that it is remapped, it needs to be with the open air cleaner and true dual pipes. But with what was it remapped and by whom?

Is it a piggyback such as a PCV, FuelPak or other? Or maybe it is the HD SERT or SEPST program? If a SERT (Screamin Eagle Race Tuner) or SEPST (SE Pro Super Tuner) I would want the original cd and flash stick that the tuner came with.

I would press for full tech details on the tuner changes then you could do some searching on here to learn more about what you have. Just my
 
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 07:26 AM
  #8  
JohnnyC's Avatar
JohnnyC
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
Likes: 14
From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
Default

My opinion is that buying a used modified bike is like buying a used race car. Typically you know it's been driven hard because it was built to exceed factory specs. You don't know who built it, how well it was reassembled (for the long haul), or what kind of driver the previous owner was (buying from a dealer).

All you do know is how it drives, rides, and sounds today.

My preference is to get one that has all the repairs and mods listed on receipts from the dealer / respectable repair facility. Other than that you have no assurance of how well the after market mods were installed.

Built motors are very typically pushed hard and unless you know the owner, and the person who did the work you have a big question mark making that type of investment.

Just my 2 cents.
 

Last edited by JohnnyC; Jan 7, 2011 at 07:30 AM. Reason: grammar
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 07:32 AM
  #9  
FDHOG's Avatar
FDHOG
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,275
Likes: 241
From: Highlands, NJ
Default

Originally Posted by JohnnyC
My opinion is that buying a used modified bike is like buying a used race car. Typically you know it's been driven hard because it was built to exceed factory specs. you don't know who built it, how well it was reassembled (for the long haul), or what kind of driver the previous owner was (buying from a dealer).

All you do know is how it drives, rides, and sounds today.

My preference is to get one that has all the repairs and mods listed on receipts from the dealer. Other than that you have no assurance of how well the mods were installed.

Again though built motors are very typically pushed hard and unless you know the owner, and the person who did the work you have a big question mark making that type of investment.

Just my 2 cents.
I think the OP said that it was only a Stage 1, which would mean Exhaust, A/C, & a remap, which is the way I bet almost 75% of bikes leave the Dealer. I wouldn't worry about a bike with only a Stage 1.
 
Reply
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 03:15 PM
  #10  
JohnnyC's Avatar
JohnnyC
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
Likes: 14
From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
Default

I was primarily referring to the one he "actually loved".

Originally Posted by SugsPa
I finally found the OTHER bike I like. The first one I liked (actually loved) had a Stage 3 or 4 kit and HD would not warranty it,
But I can agree that simple Stage 1 alterations are not too extreme and will improve the performance, with a trade off of often lowering gas mileage.

My opinion is that any performance upgrades generally means the owner is not your typical operator. Generally speaking performance upgrades are for those who drive a bike a little harder than the average operator on a stock bike. Why else would they alter a bike's performance if they weren't looking for the thrill of faster / quicker, louder, stronger and in some cases shinier?
 
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:31 AM.