another cam topic
I plan on taking a look at my tensioners this weekend on my 99 FLHRCI and am planning on installing new cams...probably Andrews 21 or 26s. Here is my problem. I have read so much endless do this do that dont do this dont do that on the internet and heard so many opinions I still have no clue weather to go with the hydraulic tensioners or gear drive. I know people talk alot about the run out but my local wrench says not to worry about it unless your building a monster ground pounder. He has done countless gear drive set ups and has never checked the run out.....claims hes never had a single one come back. I do kinda trust this guy cause he pretty much specializes in engine building and builds some power houses. However knowing that there are people out there that have had problems with gear drives it will always be in the back of my mind. So that makes me lean towards the hydraulic conversion. Might just have to flip a coil cause if its left up to me I will never make up my mind.
Given how easy it is to fit your 88 with the new hyd. tensioners I would probably do that. The new tensioners and oil pump and cam plate along with Andrews 26H cams will make your 88 run great and be dependable, I had them in my 07 96" and was very happy.
Mark
Mark
I put the new cam plate in my 88 and it's great. very quiet. about 500.00 tho. I don't really think it's that much more than a gear drive set up but I don't know. I do know you don't have to press any gears or sprockets on and off with the chain driven "N" cams making installation pretty easy.
It's called "paralysis by analysis". If you're going to have a wrench do it for you, and he's been very successful at it, what more do you need to know?
There's probably more than one way to take out an appendix, but if I have a doctor that's had great results at it I'd probably let him do it his way.
There's probably more than one way to take out an appendix, but if I have a doctor that's had great results at it I'd probably let him do it his way.
Who has problems with gear driven cams? I was a Goldwing rider and their gear driven cams are totally reliable. The problem is noise. Gear box whine. I hate it. When I upgraded my cams on my 09 ultra that already had the hydraulic drive, I was urged by my local stealer to go with gear drive. I said a big polite NO. I do not like the sound of gear driven cams. If you don't mind that, my very humble opinion is that gear drive is more reliable. If you don't want to change the sound, go with the hydraulics.
Call this guy, he will give you an honest opinion, and sell you whatever you decide on at a reasonable rate. The New hydraulics have proven quite reliable, quiet, and you can put em in yourself with only 2 special tools.
http://www.flyingwperformance.com/
http://www.flyingwperformance.com/
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It's called "paralysis by analysis". If you're going to have a wrench do it for you, and he's been very successful at it, what more do you need to know?
There's probably more than one way to take out an appendix, but if I have a doctor that's had great results at it I'd probably let him do it his way.
There's probably more than one way to take out an appendix, but if I have a doctor that's had great results at it I'd probably let him do it his way.
+1 to that
to add, I have only slight gear whine when the engine is cold at start up, and none when it's running at normal operating tempatures. I'm a believer in gear drives for the early twin cams.
to add, I have only slight gear whine when the engine is cold at start up, and none when it's running at normal operating tempatures. I'm a believer in gear drives for the early twin cams.
On my 2000 FXDS build, I went with ss 570 G drives. Many other modifications yes.
The reason I would SUGGEST go to the New Hydraulic systtem IS.... $$$ and what you get for the money.. The KIT plus a few other parts and tools would UP-Grade your bike to the newer style and Give you the Bigger oil pump and better cam plate. JUST the cost of the oil pump is a good deal HD's "KIT" is 429$$ and a few other parts needed: like New cam bearings(2),along with full gage needles for the engine side(2) and a cam cover gasket= all about 35$
The Gear drive is a great way to go but will cost much more IF done right+++ replacing the Needed oil pump(new pump Bigger gerotors)..
I did the Fueling oil pump and lifters for about the same cost as the Hydraulic "KIT" of today. then bought a Delkron cam plate then SS570 Gear drives. Big $$ then.
If I were doing a street bike,, and like it sounds, only doing the Upgrade to replace the Shoes,,,, I would go the Hydraulic "KIT" conversion..
Just more FOOD for the thought..
I DO DISAGREE Strongly with your/builders statement about Crank Run-Out... Never done and Not needed...He scares me...
MHO... You Should ALWAYS take a crank reading to see IF you can go Gear drive.. .0015= good crank (0.0035 MAX total run-out for gear drives.)(.)
IF more than that,,,go the hydraulic Kit and be happy...
Gear drives with way out of sink cranks Can make Gears noisy and also Break the drive gears of the cams.( cranks out of tolerances also hard on Oil Pumps)...
Some of the Newer TC bikes today,,, One Owner COMPLAINed about the Vibration of his bike...
Riding a Buddies of the exact same yr. model,,, His being SMOOOOOOTh.. The crank was way OUT of tolerance and shook the whole bike..
Nightmares on some of todays Newer bikes and HD's way to solve the Crank Issue Is to UP the tolerances of OUT at the crank to .012... Any bike with 0.012 out at the crank IS a Big Problem and you can Feel it.
Usually the Older bikes(pre 07 TC) Had Less problems with Crank Run-Out... Mine (2000) was right at the 0.001 Very good. Keeping the Gear Drives Nice and Quiet. Like a Proper set up gear drive should be.
signed....REDHEAD
The reason I would SUGGEST go to the New Hydraulic systtem IS.... $$$ and what you get for the money.. The KIT plus a few other parts and tools would UP-Grade your bike to the newer style and Give you the Bigger oil pump and better cam plate. JUST the cost of the oil pump is a good deal HD's "KIT" is 429$$ and a few other parts needed: like New cam bearings(2),along with full gage needles for the engine side(2) and a cam cover gasket= all about 35$
The Gear drive is a great way to go but will cost much more IF done right+++ replacing the Needed oil pump(new pump Bigger gerotors)..
I did the Fueling oil pump and lifters for about the same cost as the Hydraulic "KIT" of today. then bought a Delkron cam plate then SS570 Gear drives. Big $$ then.
If I were doing a street bike,, and like it sounds, only doing the Upgrade to replace the Shoes,,,, I would go the Hydraulic "KIT" conversion..
Just more FOOD for the thought..
I DO DISAGREE Strongly with your/builders statement about Crank Run-Out... Never done and Not needed...He scares me...
MHO... You Should ALWAYS take a crank reading to see IF you can go Gear drive.. .0015= good crank (0.0035 MAX total run-out for gear drives.)(.)
IF more than that,,,go the hydraulic Kit and be happy...
Gear drives with way out of sink cranks Can make Gears noisy and also Break the drive gears of the cams.( cranks out of tolerances also hard on Oil Pumps)...
Some of the Newer TC bikes today,,, One Owner COMPLAINed about the Vibration of his bike...
Riding a Buddies of the exact same yr. model,,, His being SMOOOOOOTh.. The crank was way OUT of tolerance and shook the whole bike..
Nightmares on some of todays Newer bikes and HD's way to solve the Crank Issue Is to UP the tolerances of OUT at the crank to .012... Any bike with 0.012 out at the crank IS a Big Problem and you can Feel it.
Usually the Older bikes(pre 07 TC) Had Less problems with Crank Run-Out... Mine (2000) was right at the 0.001 Very good. Keeping the Gear Drives Nice and Quiet. Like a Proper set up gear drive should be.
signed....REDHEAD


