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I know, my bad; fingers working faster than my brain. It's a great slide show on cat removal from start to finish. I think I found it on this forum a few weeks back; I saved it for future reference and have posted it for others but now I can't remember how I linked it. I will figure it out.
The problem is not with the mufflers which can be adjusted for the loss of the saw blade thickness. The problem comes with the hanger for the pipe that goes under the bike where it attaches to the clamp on the transmission. If you do not gap weld the pipe it puts that under pipe in a slight bind in the hanger because it is now closer to the transmission. It is not a big deal but it takes just a little more time to gap weld the pipe and not have the possibility of the binding under pipe. I have done several of these and the gap weld make the whole job go back onto the bike much easier. BTW a chop saw with a cutoff wheel makes a much cleaner cut and takes a lot less time.
The problem is not with the mufflers which can be adjusted for the loss of the saw blade thickness. The problem comes with the hanger for the pipe that goes under the bike where it attaches to the clamp on the transmission. If you do not gap weld the pipe it puts that under pipe in a slight bind in the hanger because it is now closer to the transmission. It is not a big deal but it takes just a little more time to gap weld the pipe and not have the possibility of the binding under pipe. I have done several of these and the gap weld make the whole job go back onto the bike much easier. BTW a chop saw with a cutoff wheel makes a much cleaner cut and takes a lot less time.
mine was a 2-1 so i didn't have that issue with the crossover pipe....
The problem is not with the mufflers which can be adjusted for the loss of the saw blade thickness. The problem comes with the hanger for the pipe that goes under the bike where it attaches to the clamp on the transmission. If you do not gap weld the pipe it puts that under pipe in a slight bind in the hanger because it is now closer to the transmission. It is not a big deal but it takes just a little more time to gap weld the pipe and not have the possibility of the binding under pipe. I have done several of these and the gap weld make the whole job go back onto the bike much easier. BTW a chop saw with a cutoff wheel makes a much cleaner cut and takes a lot less time.
Where exactly on the head pipe are you making your cut?
Where exactly on the head pipe are you making your cut?
I cut them in the middle of the fat section, basically in the middle of the cat. I have also cut two pipes right through the rear weld. Cutting at the rear weld make for a better looking finished job because you can blend the welds together. The problem is you need a longer tool to get the cat material out and lining the pieces up to weld the it together take a lot more time to line up.
I cut them in the middle of the fat section, basically in the middle of the cat. I have also cut two pipes right through the rear weld. Cutting at the rear weld make for a better looking finished job because you can blend the welds together. The problem is you need a longer tool to get the cat material out and lining the pieces up to weld the it together take a lot more time to line up.
this is where I cut mine and I used a very thin band saw which made a perfect straight cut without removing enough material to notice.
Here is a picture of how I did mine. I used a Dremmel to cut the pipe and since it wasn't cut in half I never had to worry about aligning the 2 halves and the pipe not fitting to the bike afterwords.
Here is a picture of how I did mine. I used a Dremmel to cut the pipe and since it wasn't cut in half I never had to worry about aligning the 2 halves and the pipe not fitting to the bike afterwords.
Bro that is seriously impressive, a very clever appraoch to the cat removal, you could probably get away with an even smaller cut out section. I've been fabricating for a long time, and I never even considered doing it that way. Way to think outside the box.
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