that is why you adjust the pushrod when the lifter is on the heel of the cam (lowest point) the lifter has a spring that keeps it from being collapsed when it is on the heel. Some guys me included will bottom the lifter out and then come up from the bottom it works especially well the lifter is dry and you are using travel limiters.

 

Have never understood how such a simple procedure becomes to complicated and mysterious. Pushrods come with instructions, specifically the number of turns required to adjust. Put your finger, or something else over the spark plug hole, rotate rear wheel until whatever you have over the hole gets blow out and you know you are on the compressio stroke but at the bottom, place a plastic straw in the spark plug hole and rotate rear wheel until you find TDC. The piston doesn't have to be dead nuts on at TDC, can be a little before or a little after as the lifter will still be on the heel of the cam. Take up and down movement out of pushrod and then adjust the specified number of turns and lock. Let bleed down and move to the other cylinder.

For newbies, adjust pushrods before the cam cover goes back on an, with light, you can see the lifter sitting on the heel of the cam. It's not that hard.

 

I agree it's a simple procedure but when you haven't done it before and you'd really rather not see bits of your engine flying about the garage on start-up, it helps to have a little advise.... I was just suprised at how much resistance was felt extending the pushrods and wanted to double check I was doing things right. Your instructions above do totally take the mystery out of it and indicate how simple it is to do. Seems a lot of folks doing their own cam swaps so the more helpfull threads they can find the better!