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I've adjusted small block V8's with solids or hydraulic lifters with the motors running, no problem. Concerning bleeding down the HD lifters. When I shut the motor down, a valve or two will be open. If I adjust the pushrods after the motor has cooled, the open valve will have bleed down the lifter before adjustment. I understand how to adjust the pumped up lifters and wait for them to bleed down before turning the motor to adjust the other pushrods, but what effect does the "bleed down" lifter (when motor was shut down) have on the procedure. It seems like that lifter would have no oil in it while the lifters on closed valves would be full of oil. How does this effect the adjustment procedure? After backing off the pushrod and then removing play, is the resistance the same with the pumped up (full of oil) lifter vs the bleed down unit?
that is why you adjust the pushrod when the lifter is on the heel of the cam (lowest point) the lifter has a spring that keeps it from being collapsed when it is on the heel. Some guys me included will bottom the lifter out and then come up from the bottom it works especially well the lifter is dry and you are using travel limiters.
Have never understood how such a simple procedure becomes to complicated and mysterious. Pushrods come with instructions, specifically the number of turns required to adjust. Put your finger, or something else over the spark plug hole, rotate rear wheel until whatever you have over the hole gets blow out and you know you are on the compressio stroke but at the bottom, place a plastic straw in the spark plug hole and rotate rear wheel until you find TDC. The piston doesn't have to be dead nuts on at TDC, can be a little before or a little after as the lifter will still be on the heel of the cam. Take up and down movement out of pushrod and then adjust the specified number of turns and lock. Let bleed down and move to the other cylinder.
For newbies, adjust pushrods before the cam cover goes back on an, with light, you can see the lifter sitting on the heel of the cam. It's not that hard.
Have never understood how such a simple procedure becomes to complicated and mysterious. Pushrods come with instructions, specifically the number of turns required to adjust. Put your finger, or something else over the spark plug hole, rotate rear wheel until whatever you have over the hole gets blow out and you know you are on the compressio stroke but at the bottom, place a plastic straw in the spark plug hole and rotate rear wheel until you find TDC. The piston doesn't have to be dead nuts on at TDC, can be a little before or a little after as the lifter will still be on the heel of the cam. Take up and down movement out of pushrod and then adjust the specified number of turns and lock. Let bleed down and move to the other cylinder.
For newbies, adjust pushrods before the cam cover goes back on an, with light, you can see the lifter sitting on the heel of the cam. It's not that hard.
I agree it's a simple procedure but when you haven't done it before and you'd really rather not see bits of your engine flying about the garage on start-up, it helps to have a little advise.... I was just suprised at how much resistance was felt extending the pushrods and wanted to double check I was doing things right. Your instructions above do totally take the mystery out of it and indicate how simple it is to do. Seems a lot of folks doing their own cam swaps so the more helpfull threads they can find the better!
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