Enclosed trailers ???
Club Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,582
Likes: 72
From: North East
Deck Restore @ Home Depot.....just a suggestion.
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: SC
i just wanted to make a suggestion for floor paint.
i just bought a 8.5X20 V-nose car hauler. my neighbor worked at Sherwin Williams so i asked him about painting the bare walls and floor. well what we did was primer the wall and use regular ext. white paint. then the had some epoxy paint that someone didn't want that was the right color for me. for $10 a gallon i got the 2 they had. well the first can was just paint. but in the second can i had them add "Shark Bite". man that stuff is amazing for grip. i have a total of $110 in paint cause i asked if they had missed match paint in the back. its also a great to get paint for any projects!!
i just bought a 8.5X20 V-nose car hauler. my neighbor worked at Sherwin Williams so i asked him about painting the bare walls and floor. well what we did was primer the wall and use regular ext. white paint. then the had some epoxy paint that someone didn't want that was the right color for me. for $10 a gallon i got the 2 they had. well the first can was just paint. but in the second can i had them add "Shark Bite". man that stuff is amazing for grip. i have a total of $110 in paint cause i asked if they had missed match paint in the back. its also a great to get paint for any projects!!
Banned
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 277
Likes: 48
From: Hometown
You can see my street glide is close to the middle in the back, when I drive it strait on two fit but it is tight. When I load two baggers I remove one inside saddlebag from one bike just for insurance. They don't touch but I like having more space. Also this Horton hauler has a finished inside with wood sides inside and wired for a/c in the roof. If you get one that doesn't have the wood walls that would free up another couple inches on the inside!
technically this is a 7x12 with an additional three foot v-nose so a 14" would have a lot more room up front.
technically this is a 7x12 with an additional three foot v-nose so a 14" would have a lot more room up front.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,325
Likes: 333
From: Upper Providence Pa
OK I will throw in a couple pics. Interesting thread. I looked at the Stealth And R & R. Stealth Alum was nice but not what I was looking for. I ended up going with the R & R all Aluminum 7'6" X 16' with a 3' V nose. They were easy to work with and allowed me many options that I could pick and choose. I added 110 V package with breaker box. Powered vent, tilt out bed. LED Lights inside and out. LED back up lights on the trailer, mounted spare tire, and a step for the RV style screen door. I got the floor plain and finished it out myself. E Track and 12" tiles from Rubber Flooring Inc. I am pretty proud of it!
What is the option for the flip out bed referred to? I have been in contact for pricing for a very similar trailer and thinking that could be a great option, its not listed..
Joe
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 48
From: WI
I could really use some help here. I ended up buying the 7x14 and this is how they mounted the D-rings. They said this was the standard d-ring layout so I didn't even think about it twice before ordering. But now that I see it in the trailer, I am questioning how its going to work.... Any comments from others that have 7X14? I want to haul 2 roadkings with hard saddlebags. As I look at it now, The inner d-ring is only 32" from side wall, maybe a little less. I know my 2010 roadking is wider than this, so the wheel chock is going to be offset more towards the inner d-ring or the handlebars are going to hit on the side of the trailer.
Any comments and or suggestions a) if this layout will work and b) where to mount the wheel chock? c) if I offset the chock is it ok that the front straps are not at the same angle?
Thanks
Any comments and or suggestions a) if this layout will work and b) where to mount the wheel chock? c) if I offset the chock is it ok that the front straps are not at the same angle?
Thanks
Supporter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,133
Likes: 147
From: Grays Creek, NC
I have one more question.. After I doing measurements and the math on the two baggers fitting within my 7 wide (81" is the inside dimension) The handle bars on one bike are 3 inches from the wall, the other bikes handle bars are 2 inches from the opposite wall (bikes are staggered so inside dimension don't matter on handle bars) and the hard saddle bags on the two bikes are 3 inches apart from each other. The question I have is it seems the 2-3 inches of clearance I have all the way around isn't enough. If tied down properly will the handlebars ever touch the wall? or the bags each other?
Last edited by hd_rolling; Mar 10, 2016 at 12:41 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 413
Likes: 16
From: Killeen, Tx
I would not use Line-X on the ramp, or in side for that matter. Unless you add some grit to it, Line-X dries hard and will be slippery.
I have some on my trucks nerf bars and that stuff is a hard coating.
Here is a pic of my deluxe accommodations at Sturgis
I have some on my trucks nerf bars and that stuff is a hard coating.
Here is a pic of my deluxe accommodations at Sturgis
I have one more question.. After I doing measurements and the math on the two baggers fitting within my 7 wide (81" is the inside dimension) The handle bars on one bike are 3 inches from the wall, the other bikes handle bars are 2 inches from the opposite wall (bikes are staggered so inside dimension don't matter on handle bars) and the hard saddle bags on the two bikes are 3 inches apart from each other. The question I have is it seems the 2-3 inches of clearance I have all the way around isn't enough. If tied down properly will the handlebars ever touch the wall? or the bags each other?
All fairings are an inch from the outside walls.
I strap the **** out of my bikes, usually 6 per bike, and they DO NOT MOVE.
Wish I had a pic, but sorry, I don't. in the chock, 2 straps from the trees to the front, straps from a sturdy member near the rear, (peg mount, floorboard mount, frame, etc) also pulling down and forward, then I always strap from the front of the frame back toward the rear on the floor, this adds insurance that they will not move side to side, and provides me piece of mind as the chock is not the only thing holding backward.
Another key for me: DO NOT USE CHEAP STRAPS!
I will not use the cam style straps. I only use higher quality rachets, never the el cheapos from wallyworld.
If I have over $50,000 worth of iron in the trailer, I can afford a couple hundred bucks for quality straps.
My 2 cents, YMMV.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,993
Likes: 20
From: Southeast GA
A 6x12 V nose is perfect for 1 bike but an option I love on mine is it has 7' height at the back opening instead of the usual 6'. Mine is a Diamond Cargo built in southeast GA but I'm sure many other manufacturers have that available.
