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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 04:48 AM
  #71  
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Default D-Ring layout on a 7x14

I could really use some help here. I ended up buying the 7x14 and this is how they mounted the D-rings. They said this was the standard d-ring layout so I didn't even think about it twice before ordering. But now that I see it in the trailer, I am questioning how its going to work.... Any comments from others that have 7X14? I want to haul 2 roadkings with hard saddlebags. As I look at it now, The inner d-ring is only 32" from side wall, maybe a little less. I know my 2010 roadking is wider than this, so the wheel chock is going to be offset more towards the inner d-ring or the handlebars are going to hit on the side of the trailer.

Any comments and or suggestions a) if this layout will work and b) where to mount the wheel chock? c) if I offset the chock is it ok that the front straps are not at the same angle?

Thanks
 
Attached Thumbnails Enclosed trailers ???-d-ring-layout.jpg  
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 05:44 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by reh13
I've owned a bunch of trailers (motorcycle, boat, utility, etc...), equipped with torsion bar suspension, and never had a suspension related problem. As far as I'm concerned, it's the only thing to have.
I totally agree. The bike will ride much, much smoother than other axles and springs. I have never had a problem. Currently I have an open single bike trailer with torsion bar suspension and when pulling it you can see how smooth the bike rides.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 06:27 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by hikervt
I could really use some help here. I ended up buying the 7x14 and this is how they mounted the D-rings. They said this was the standard d-ring layout so I didn't even think about it twice before ordering. But now that I see it in the trailer, I am questioning how its going to work.... Any comments from others that have 7X14? I want to haul 2 roadkings with hard saddlebags. As I look at it now, The inner d-ring is only 32" from side wall, maybe a little less. I know my 2010 roadking is wider than this, so the wheel chock is going to be offset more towards the inner d-ring or the handlebars are going to hit on the side of the trailer.

Any comments and or suggestions a) if this layout will work and b) where to mount the wheel chock? c) if I offset the chock is it ok that the front straps are not at the same angle?

Thanks
That's how mine is layed out. Remember your not tying to the end of the handlebars you going to frame and forks. On my forks I have the H-D mount bracket, then above the fender to fork mount, then around the top down tube/crash bar junction, then the passenger foot pegs. Soft ties around each place mentioned and then good ratchets straps with snap hooks on each end just incase. I then take a 4X4 and add a 2X4 on top screwed together and this is approx. 24 inches long. I slide the now 2X6 under the frame. I then tighten all the straps just enough to hold the bike. I do not compress the forks any more than half way. After first half hour I check the tension on the straps to see if any needs adjusting after settling in and every fuel stop afterwards. SOLID
 

Last edited by K Melancon; Mar 2, 2014 at 06:49 AM.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 06:31 AM
  #74  
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and 16inch on center studs ,I always get one just a little bigger to carry all my bags and tools
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 07:34 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by hikervt
I could really use some help here. I ended up buying the 7x14 and this is how they mounted the D-rings. They said this was the standard d-ring layout so I didn't even think about it twice before ordering. But now that I see it in the trailer, I am questioning how its going to work.... Any comments from others that have 7X14? I want to haul 2 roadkings with hard saddlebags. As I look at it now, The inner d-ring is only 32" from side wall, maybe a little less. I know my 2010 roadking is wider than this, so the wheel chock is going to be offset more towards the inner d-ring or the handlebars are going to hit on the side of the trailer.

Any comments and or suggestions a) if this layout will work and b) where to mount the wheel chock? c) if I offset the chock is it ok that the front straps are not at the same angle?

Thanks
I would use e-track and then you can haul almost anything. I staggered and offset my wheel chocks for two bikes in my 7 x 12 dual axel.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 08:42 AM
  #76  
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Subscribed! Great info
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 09:48 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by K Melancon
That's how mine is layed out. Remember your not tying to the end of the handlebars you going to frame and forks. On my forks I have the H-D mount bracket, then above the fender to fork mount, then around the top down tube/crash bar junction, then the passenger foot pegs. Soft ties around each place mentioned and then good ratchets straps with snap hooks on each end just incase. I then take a 4X4 and add a 2X4 on top screwed together and this is approx. 24 inches long. I slide the now 2X6 under the frame. I then tighten all the straps just enough to hold the bike. I do not compress the forks any more than half way. After first half hour I check the tension on the straps to see if any needs adjusting after settling in and every fuel stop afterwards. SOLID
Thank you for the very quick response.. I like the idea of using the HD mount brackets on the front forks.. So if I understand you correct, the wheel chock is offset between the front two d-rings, closer to the center of the trailer which would make the angle of the two front straps different right? That was my question, didn't know if having the the two front straps at different angles would cause any issues when the shocks compressed. I would think one strap would loosen more than the other causing the bike to tilt? Maybe I am way over thinking this haha..
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 10:04 AM
  #78  
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I own a Haulmark, it will double as a hauler for my bike if necessary. Nice quality. Haulmark has different levels at different price points
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 10:06 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by grandparon45
Look at the snowmobile trailers with the front doors for ride on, ride off, advantage.
True...I have a Triton TC...101"wide, 5'6" or so tall and 12 ft. deep. Light and well made for about 4,000. Aluminum is the key!
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 11:15 AM
  #80  
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Last May I picked up a Stealth 6x12. Works great!
 
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