Pistons?
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Salem, Or.
Pistons?
Getting ready to bump up to a 95" and want to know what piston kits you all might suggest? Also want to know what is the highest comp ratio I can run with out having to compensate for it. For now I'm going to stick with the stock cams. The heads will be worked and setup to accept bigger cams for later.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: earth
Thats a loaded question. You need to commit to the final build, the cam you plan to use will dictate the compression requirement, depending on how radical the build is will dictate the piston requirement. Having heads worked for a cam you plan to use some time in the future and then running them with stock cams will probably yield worse performance. Save up and do it all at once, cam, heads, big bore, and retune.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,560
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From: North Cental Iowa
What fabrik8r said is somewhat true, depending on where your final destination is. If you're looking at a fairly mild build you can probably do it in 2 stages. I went with some HD cast flatop BB pistons & a street P&P with .030 head gaskets & then added SE204 cams that winter. It ran pretty good with just the BB, but much better with the addition of the cams. If you're planning on going more radical than that you better save up & do it all at once.
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 246
Likes: 2
From: hope mills, nc
i am not trying to sway you to buying these cams. buy what you want. i use these cams in my bikes, and have had great results with them. but, at least you can use the site to help educate you on cams, to compression ratios. but study the lift #s, and the duration #s. in a nut shell, i look at it like this. short duration, and high lift, is what you would use in a big lifted 4 X 4 truck, or a tow vehicle.....low end grunt, high torque, low compression. longer duration cams, is what you would put in a race car.... high end power, and high compression.
all of the cams that do not have suggested ratios, are drop ins. if they are more aggressive grinds, they will tell you something like this:
"Aggressive design for high output 103” engine conversions. Compliments ported heads, hi-flow throttle body, exhaust. Suggested static compression range 9.0 to 10.5:1. Broad torque curve, strong pull to 6,000+ RPM."
at least it will give you an idea. like this one says 9.0 to 10.5. that is a big gap. but, this cam will work in that range. aim for the middle, is my advice. 9.5-10.0. that will keep out of the real high compression issues, and give some more pep in your bikes step as well.
like was stated earlier, if you have too much cam, with too much duration, on stock compression ratio, your bike will run like crap. but if you are going with a mild setup as your final goal, then doing a big bore, with a slight bump in compression now, and doing cams later, isnt bad. of course, me.... i would do a higher end 'drop in' cam setup first. that will give a pretty good bump in power over a simple big bore with stock heads. and, might save you money, because after you ride it with new cams, you might not need any more juice. but, if you decide to go up a few inches, and can swing a little head work too, you will make the most out of your purchase.
and i run wiseco pistons, from T-Man performance. with a T-Man Performance 95" stage one kit, on my 2000 road king. but, as was also stated earlier, buying the pistons without a kit setup, might be more of a pain in the *** than was intended. go with a reputable company, and get a kit. but, it will still be less expensive, and you will get more power out of a cam swap, than you will out of a big bore with stock heads and no cam upgrade.
hope this helps,
corb
Last edited by 2004vmc; Jan 30, 2011 at 11:07 PM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 147
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From: Salem, Or.
many sites that sell cams, have a range that cam is recommended for. the ones that work with stock compression will be referred to as "drop in" cams. the higher end versions of drop in cams, will work with a modest bump in compression as well. the easiest way i can demonstrate this, is tell you to go to the zippers website. zippersperformance.com. click on HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINE AND KITS. then CAMSHAFT AND VALVETRAIN, and then look up the model year that you have.
i am not trying to sway you to buying these cams. buy what you want. i use these cams in my bikes, and have had great results with them. but, at least you can use the site to help educate you on cams, to compression ratios. but study the lift #s, and the duration #s. in a nut shell, i look at it like this. short duration, and high lift, is what you would use in a big lifted 4 X 4 truck, or a tow vehicle.....low end grunt, high torque, low compression. longer duration cams, is what you would put in a race car.... high end power, and high compression.
all of the cams that do not have suggested ratios, are drop ins. if they are more aggressive grinds, they will tell you something like this:
"Aggressive design for high output 103 engine conversions. Compliments ported heads, hi-flow throttle body, exhaust. Suggested static compression range 9.0 to 10.5:1. Broad torque curve, strong pull to 6,000+ RPM."
at least it will give you an idea. like this one says 9.0 to 10.5. that is a big gap. but, this cam will work in that range. aim for the middle, is my advice. 9.5-10.0. that will keep out of the real high compression issues, and give some more pep in your bikes step as well.
like was stated earlier, if you have too much cam, with too much duration, on stock compression ratio, your bike will run like crap. but if you are going with a mild setup as your final goal, then doing a big bore, with a slight bump in compression now, and doing cams later, isnt bad. of course, me.... i would do a higher end 'drop in' cam setup first. that will give a pretty good bump in power over a simple big bore with stock heads. and, might save you money, because after you ride it with new cams, you might not need any more juice. but, if you decide to go up a few inches, and can swing a little head work too, you will make the most out of your purchase.
and i run wiseco pistons, from T-Man performance. with a T-Man Performance 95" stage one kit, on my 2000 road king. but, as was also stated earlier, buying the pistons without a kit setup, might be more of a pain in the *** than was intended. go with a reputable company, and get a kit. but, it will still be less expensive, and you will get more power out of a cam swap, than you will out of a big bore with stock heads and no cam upgrade.
hope this helps,
corb
i am not trying to sway you to buying these cams. buy what you want. i use these cams in my bikes, and have had great results with them. but, at least you can use the site to help educate you on cams, to compression ratios. but study the lift #s, and the duration #s. in a nut shell, i look at it like this. short duration, and high lift, is what you would use in a big lifted 4 X 4 truck, or a tow vehicle.....low end grunt, high torque, low compression. longer duration cams, is what you would put in a race car.... high end power, and high compression.
all of the cams that do not have suggested ratios, are drop ins. if they are more aggressive grinds, they will tell you something like this:
"Aggressive design for high output 103 engine conversions. Compliments ported heads, hi-flow throttle body, exhaust. Suggested static compression range 9.0 to 10.5:1. Broad torque curve, strong pull to 6,000+ RPM."
at least it will give you an idea. like this one says 9.0 to 10.5. that is a big gap. but, this cam will work in that range. aim for the middle, is my advice. 9.5-10.0. that will keep out of the real high compression issues, and give some more pep in your bikes step as well.
like was stated earlier, if you have too much cam, with too much duration, on stock compression ratio, your bike will run like crap. but if you are going with a mild setup as your final goal, then doing a big bore, with a slight bump in compression now, and doing cams later, isnt bad. of course, me.... i would do a higher end 'drop in' cam setup first. that will give a pretty good bump in power over a simple big bore with stock heads. and, might save you money, because after you ride it with new cams, you might not need any more juice. but, if you decide to go up a few inches, and can swing a little head work too, you will make the most out of your purchase.
and i run wiseco pistons, from T-Man performance. with a T-Man Performance 95" stage one kit, on my 2000 road king. but, as was also stated earlier, buying the pistons without a kit setup, might be more of a pain in the *** than was intended. go with a reputable company, and get a kit. but, it will still be less expensive, and you will get more power out of a cam swap, than you will out of a big bore with stock heads and no cam upgrade.
hope this helps,
corb
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 246
Likes: 2
From: hope mills, nc
but, i did what you are talking about doing, a few years back, on my 2004 FLHRSI, and have learned from my mistakes ( i made quite a few....). so, i ll be able to tell you how "not" to **** up. but i think i can help you to make a more informed decision, if nothing else. opinions on manufacturers will always vary. T-Man, Zippers, S & S, Fuel Moto, and several other companies make great products. but i have yet to see one sell a kit in stages. which would have been handy when i was less financially set up, and couldnt swing the dough for such products.
but yeah man, shoot a message any time. again, i am gonna take another opportunity to express how much i like this site. even though several of us disagree on who makes better parts, we are all willing to share our knowledge and experiences. good stuff.
corb
Last edited by 2004vmc; Jan 31, 2011 at 01:34 PM.
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Salem, Or.
absolutely! i am not the expert, not by any means, but, i have done this a few times, on the twin cam bikes, and a few times on the evos as well. plus, i have to do most of my research online, as i am in afghanistan for 6-8 months out of each year. actually, i am in afghan land right now, due to return late march, and cant wait to get home, so i can put on all the **** i have been buying over the last few months! lol!
but, i did what you are talking about doing, a few years back, on my 2004 FLHRSI, and have learned from my mistakes ( i made quite a few....). so, i ll be able to tell you how "not" to **** up. but i think i can help you to make a more informed decision, if nothing else. opinions on manufacturers will always vary. T-Man, Zippers, S & S, Fuel Moto, and several other companies make great products. but i have yet to see one sell a kit in stages. which would have been handy when i was less financially set up, and couldnt swing the dough for such products.
but yeah man, shoot a message any time. again, i am gonna take another opportunity to express how much i like this site. even though several of us disagree on who makes better parts, we are all willing to share our knowledge and experiences. good stuff.
corb
but, i did what you are talking about doing, a few years back, on my 2004 FLHRSI, and have learned from my mistakes ( i made quite a few....). so, i ll be able to tell you how "not" to **** up. but i think i can help you to make a more informed decision, if nothing else. opinions on manufacturers will always vary. T-Man, Zippers, S & S, Fuel Moto, and several other companies make great products. but i have yet to see one sell a kit in stages. which would have been handy when i was less financially set up, and couldnt swing the dough for such products.
but yeah man, shoot a message any time. again, i am gonna take another opportunity to express how much i like this site. even though several of us disagree on who makes better parts, we are all willing to share our knowledge and experiences. good stuff.
corb
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