If I start out by only changing the baffle, will I have to retune the bike or will it give more power straight away?

 

I wouldn't consider a retune unless I was adding cams and/or a BB kit. I can't answer the baffle question but I do know with a stock ECM pipes can be added without a reflash. I would assume removing the baffle would be fine but then again you might be passing on the benefit of the original tune.... I know there are many here who could answer this definatively....

 

I did several V-Tune runs when I changed baffles (concentric to wrapped perforated). There were substantial changes to the Lambda tables given the increased flow of the baffle.


The bike will still run OK without a re-tune. The bike will be able to take better advantage of the baffle with a re-tune.

 

I think those numbers are terrible. All I have are slipons, a breather and a TTS and I got 86/94. Call Doc and talk to him about your bike, when it comes to TTS he is the best there is and the Orlando area is not that far from you.

http://www.docsperformancetuning.com/

 

I am getting 90 hp and 99tq. with a 204se cam. I am running true duals and got rid of the cat. This is a 2010 road glide 96ci. Runs really well from 2400 rpms up to about 4800 rpms. Not any mention of the cat from anybody else, but I think it might help.

 

There is no cat in mine, as the Fat Cats are a full system (no pun intended).

 

As for your question on whether to wait on cam change, if it is running really well, don't spend the money, but if you do change cams you will like it. As far as my numbers of 90/99, they seem a little high but the bike runs really nice for touring. I sometimes wonder if tuners inflate the numbers to enhance customer satisfaction.

 

I've got a stock 2010 Street Glide with Stage 1, SERT, and V&H Pro Pipe. The dyno showed a little less than yours (72 HP and 85 TQ). So if your numbers are low like some folks are suggesting, you're not alone!! I always thought my numbers were a little low, but until I do some engine mods, I wasn't going to worry about numbers. I look at it this way - I can give someone more money to up the numbers on the dyno or I could take that money and put it in the gas tank and RIDE.

My $0.02

 

Well, I like both cam sets for different reasons, but I would suggest buying a set of 255's (CVO pulls) on Ebay and try them without any other changes. You may find that they will be enough for you, as was the case with me, and if not you can pull the cams out and resell them likely without any loss, as there will always be a market for them.

You could try the 204's, but likely won't find any used cams since they don't come in any stock configuration. IMO 204's would fit better with more compression than a stock TC96 has, although they may fit well with a Stage II (10:1) or a stock TC103 (9.6:1).

I think if you plan on going with a 107 you should consider Fuel Moto's kit that includes the Wood 555 cams, as that combo looks good. Their kit includes 10.25:1 pistons, which is too much compression for 255's and probably too high for 204's as well.

Regarding TQ/HP numbers, remember that peak values themselves don't tell you much. Where is the TQ peak and what is the effect of the cams on the low-end, as most performance cams will decrease low-end TQ unless compression is increased. If that is important to you take a look at the chart for that cam set in a stock TC96, although that also has its downside. Just because someone else achieved a certain curve doesn't mean you will with your bike with your tuner, or you may do better. What the charts usually tell you is how the cams behave throughout the RPM range--i.e., the shape of the curve, and that is more important to me than peak numbers alone. If you look at charts for both cam sets you'll see some consistency in the shape of the curves, even if peak numbers vary from bike to bike, tune to tune.

BTW, you can do a 255 upgrade on your TC96 for $200-300 if you buy used cams, reused the stock pushrods, and DIY. Quite a few of us have done it and it isn't difficult if you can follow directions. There are some good threads on doing this and the manual is generally very good in its step-by-step approach.

 

Don't get wrapped up on dyno numbers....it's a sick addiction that cost me three exhaust systems and a cam swap....if the bike runs great and you enjoy it as is, save the money for other upgrades....my experience....be cautious on dyno to dyno and bike to bike comparisons, as there is variation in everything....