Front Fender Leveling
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Chelsea, Mass
Front Fender Leveling
For you guys out there using a 21' wheel with stock fender. Is there a simple way to level out the fender so it's not aiming up? I'll be getting my new wheels in this week and would like some suggestions on how to go about this. I think I read in mag that you need to drill out some new holes on the rear mounting points. Has anyone gone that route? Thanks in advance.
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I took my fender off and drilled the back bolts holes slightly, until I was happy. I used a stepper drill bit. I tapped a small nut on top of the tire. Then tilted the fender until I liked the look. then spun the wheel to make sure the bolt didnt rub.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Chelsea, Mass
Thanks for all the replies and good suggestions! I'm going to try the step drill method first. And see how that turns out!
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
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I wouldn't use a step drill to drill out the fender mounting holes. Step drills are nice for rough work, but this is delicate work and the idea is to not chip your paint. I took some safe release masking tape (blue masking tape) and taped over the rear mounting holes and drilled them out with a new drill bit that was about 0.4" in diameter (as recommended to me from a tech at Renegade wheels). I also placed a towel over the rest of the fender to prevent the hot drillings from falling on my paint and damaging it. When I was done drilling I masked all around the holes and fender and shot a little black spray paint (my bike is black) inside the holes from both sides to prevent rust on the raw metal. When I was done and the paint was dry I reinstalled the fender and put my new wheel on with a 1/4" thick nut taped to it. The wheel spun freely with the 1/4" nut attached. I never tried the fender with the 21" without drilling the holes. I've read of too many people who installed their 21" wheel and had some clearance, but later found out that their wheel was touching the inside of their fender at speed due to "tire sling" and damaging the paint on the top of the fender due to the build up of heat. Also, you want to make sure that you have at least a little clearance so when you tire picks up a small rock it doesn't run it around the inside of your fender and cause a crease around it.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 143
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From: Chelsea, Mass
I wouldn't use a step drill to drill out the fender mounting holes. Step drills are nice for rough work, but this is delicate work and the idea is to not chip your paint. I took some safe release masking tape (blue masking tape) and taped over the rear mounting holes and drilled them out with a new drill bit that was about 0.4" in diameter (as recommended to me from a tech at Renegade wheels). I also placed a towel over the rest of the fender to prevent the hot drillings from falling on my paint and damaging it. When I was done drilling I masked all around the holes and fender and shot a little black spray paint (my bike is black) inside the holes from both sides to prevent rust on the raw metal. When I was done and the paint was dry I reinstalled the fender and put my new wheel on with a 1/4" thick nut taped to it. The wheel spun freely with the 1/4" nut attached. I never tried the fender with the 21" without drilling the holes. I've read of too many people who installed their 21" wheel and had some clearance, but later found out that their wheel was touching the inside of their fender at speed due to "tire sling" and damaging the paint on the top of the fender due to the build up of heat. Also, you want to make sure that you have at least a little clearance so when you tire picks up a small rock it doesn't run it around the inside of your fender and cause a crease around it.