S-100 Cleaner
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Supporter
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,419
Likes: 89
From: Vermont
S-100 Cleaner
Will the S-100 Total Cycle Cleaner remove what looks like some corrosion spots on the engines highlited fin edges? You guys all talking about garage dampness, cheap bad chrome and rust on the new bikes, made me paranoid enough that I went down into the garage and went over my new bike with a fine tooth comb. At first I saw nothing, but I decided to leave it uncovered for a day and as I drove in the garage last night and my headlights hit the engine in the dark I noticed the engine fin edges had dull spots on them in places. I thought it was just dried soap, but it now appears as though it is some minor corrosion starting. All the chrome looks just fine, just dusty from sitting patially covered. Its just some spots on the highlited engine fin edges and on the polished and clear coated wheel edges. The wheels I'll just polish with a mild compound, but I'm curious about the S-100 cleaner and the corrosion on the fin edges.
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 127
Likes: 1
From: the netherlands
i always use s100 very good product
use it and the spots dissepear
and leave a small film on the whole bike thats prevents condensation spots
but read the manual from s100
here my story about the s100
spray the bike part for part
because you have to spray it whit lots of water after you rinse it
whit cold engine and out of the sun! (before washing to metal must be cold as possible)
and dry the bike after cleaning !
i do it whit the airblaster and give me the best results
and wax only the paint but is not neccesary
because the s100 film that left behind
lets shine the whole bike like new
this is very important because the most fastners and alu/chrome parts on the bike
are cheap products
(i hope somebody from hd read this to
)
and make your bike looking a piece of crap after a while
when your not take care enough for the parts
and the s100 is the easy way to do it whitout sweating.
use it and the spots dissepear
and leave a small film on the whole bike thats prevents condensation spots
but read the manual from s100
here my story about the s100
spray the bike part for part
because you have to spray it whit lots of water after you rinse it
whit cold engine and out of the sun! (before washing to metal must be cold as possible)
and dry the bike after cleaning !
i do it whit the airblaster and give me the best results
and wax only the paint but is not neccesary
because the s100 film that left behind
lets shine the whole bike like new
this is very important because the most fastners and alu/chrome parts on the bike
are cheap products
(i hope somebody from hd read this to
)and make your bike looking a piece of crap after a while
when your not take care enough for the parts
and the s100 is the easy way to do it whitout sweating.
Last edited by tonnetje; Feb 13, 2011 at 11:23 AM.
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
From: Australia
I have the same problem with mine, mostly starting to get corrosion on the edge of the fins that are unpainted. I was thinking of using some very fine wet and dry paper just to shiny it up again and use some S100 engine brightener to help keep the bare alloy protected.
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,419
Likes: 89
From: Vermont
It is the beginning of very minor corrosion. I'm scared to death to get sand paper near the fins. Doesn't take much of a slip....At the very bottom of the cylinders there is also that wide un painted strip and it also has some spots of corrosion starting. Thats too close to the case and other parts for my comfort with abrasives. My eyes aren't what they used to be. If S-100 Cycle Cleaner will do it, I'd like to try the least radical first.
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Supporter
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,419
Likes: 89
From: Vermont
It is the beginning of very minor corrosion. I'm scared to death to get sand paper near the fins. Doesn't take much of a slip....At the very bottom of the cylinders there is also that wide un painted strip and it also has some spots of corrosion starting. Thats too close to the case and other parts for my comfort with abrasives. My eyes aren't what they used to be. If S-100 Cycle Cleaner will do it, I'd like to try the least radical first. It probably has to do with my wifes rolling salt pit. She is on the road round the clock and comes in with more salt on her rig than is in the town salt pit. I clean it up weekly, but it could be having an impact. Isn't affecting any chrome yet??
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 507
Likes: 1
From: Portland, OR
A scotchbrite pad works well on these fin edges. Use VERY light touches, and I move up/down to follow the machine marks on mine. You'll still be able to make out where they were if you get your nose a couple of inches away, but the bloom will be gone.
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Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 930
Likes: 4
From: Jacksonville, FL
I use S100 and it does a good job of removing dirt, but its not going to help with the corrosion. My advice if you are going to use the S100, make sure and rinse the product completely off, the more water the better. If you do not remove all the residue, it will create corrosion of the alumimun parts, its very caustic when allowed to dry on the surface.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 3
From: Victoria, Australia
No spray product can remove pitting corrosion-- that's why it's called "pitting", as miniature craters exist due to the effects of corrosion.
Pitting can only be 'removed' by either reducing the height of the parent metal around the pits to create an even surface with the bottom of the pits, or filling in the pits to raise them to the original height of the parent metal. Neither option workable on chrome or alloy surfaces unless you don't mind "ugly"....
If grit paper or a file is used to clean up cylinder fins you must be extermely careful to fully wash the engine after sanding or filing, as the metal removed from the fins can cause pitting corrosion where they fall if left lying in situ.
Pitting can only be 'removed' by either reducing the height of the parent metal around the pits to create an even surface with the bottom of the pits, or filling in the pits to raise them to the original height of the parent metal. Neither option workable on chrome or alloy surfaces unless you don't mind "ugly"....
If grit paper or a file is used to clean up cylinder fins you must be extermely careful to fully wash the engine after sanding or filing, as the metal removed from the fins can cause pitting corrosion where they fall if left lying in situ.