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No spray product can remove pitting corrosion-- that's why it's called "pitting", as miniature craters exist due to the effects of corrosion.
Pitting can only be 'removed' by either reducing the height of the parent metal around the pits to create an even surface with the bottom of the pits, or filling in the pits to raise them to the original height of the parent metal. Neither option workable on chrome or alloy surfaces unless you don't mind "ugly"....
If grit paper or a file is used to clean up cylinder fins you must be extermely careful to fully wash the engine after sanding or filing, as the metal removed from the fins can cause pitting corrosion where they fall if left lying in situ.
It doesn't appear pitted? Just heavily spotted if that makes sense. I'm going to give her a heavy cleaning this weekend and then I'll find out. Can I spray the S-100 Engine Brightener on a dusty motor then wash? Not the Cleaner but the brightner. I've never used that before either. I'd like to darken the cases back up then get the overspray off when I wash, but the engine is a little dusty from sitting since fall?
It doesn't appear pitted? Just heavily spotted if that makes sense. I'm going to give her a heavy cleaning this weekend and then I'll find out. Can I spray the S-100 Engine Brightener on a dusty motor then wash? Not the Cleaner but the brightner. I've never used that before either. I'd like to darken the cases back up then get the over spay off when I wash, but the engine is a little dusty from sitting since fall?
RickI understand what your saying about "heavily spotted". It may take a bit of "elbow grease" to remove the spotting first.
For the brightener -- personally I would wash it first to get it as clean as possible and remove any and all oil, grease, dirt, crud etc; let it dry completely then follow the brightener instructions.
RickI understand what your saying about "heavily spotted". It may take a bit of "elbow grease" to remove the spotting first.
For the brightener -- personally I would wash it first to get it as clean as possible and remove any and all oil, grease, dirt, crud etc; let it dry completely then follow the brightener instructions.
let us know how it goes.
Thanks, I'm looking forward to spending a little garage time on her this weekend. It will actually be the first weekend I've had off since Christmas, and I'll have the house (Garage) to myself as the wife and kids are heading to Mass for a visit with freinds and the inlaws. Stay tuned!
Well, I spent this past weekend starting to prepare for a new riding season..."Wishfull Thinking" at this point. I started by washing and seeing if the spots on the polished engine fin edges and on the polished wheel edges was in fact corrosion. Thankfully it is just hard water spots due to my poor final wash job last Fall. I have to also say, that I tried the S-100 Total Cycle Cleaner and Engine Brightner with excellent results. Cloudy Grundgy areas that I couldn't reach with a wash mitt, such as the tiop of the rocker boxes under the gas tank, came out nice and clean with just the S-100 spray. I was impressed. This next weekend, I'm going to wax and polish everything that I should have done last Fall when she went away. I was relieved to know that the spotting was just hard water and not corrosion from the damp winter salt covered cars sharing space with my bike.
Hey Rickr01-- thanks for the feedback and glad t hear it worked out for you. I'd have to say you a lucky guy re the suspected corrosion ending up as water spots.
Now be careful and protect your investment cuz as we all know "corrosion never sleeps"...
I had the slight discoloring/corrosion starting on my fins after the winter and got quite worried. I went out tonight to the garage and used 0000 fine steel wool and some water and with some elbow grease it shined it back up as good as new. It just takes a bit of time. Good luck.
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