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Just a quick thanks Jeremy. Mine did the exact same thing yesterday and thank goodness that I was going less than 5-10 mph. All is well, but it laid down on left side. Got it back up on both tires and the front was completely locked up. Front brake handle solid. Bled the caliper down to get it back home. Gonna tear it down this weekend and take a look. Thanks again for following up with the resolution. As you said, sometimes you go down a path for an answer and never find it because they resolve the issue and never repost!
After changing the fluid multiple times and rebuilding the mc twice to no avail, I was about to buy a new mc. Then, I shined a bright light through it, and peered at the fluid return holes with a magnifying glass (my eyesight isn't the best) and I could see just the tiniest of occlusions in the perfect circle of light from one of the holes. I had previously tried to clean these by spraying brake cleaner through there and using a small wire, but it was obviously still slightly dirty. So, I soaked the entire mc in a jar of brake cleaner for 24 hours, then worked the wire around in the hole under the brake cleaner, then blew it out with compressed air. After all this, the hole is now perfectly round when shining light through it. I've had no more brake problems so far. Apparently, even the tiniest amount of restriction in those return passages can eventually lock up a brake.
Glad you got it worked out and you weren't harmed when the brakes locked up.
Personally, if I experienced what you (and others here) have, there's simply no way that master cylinder would EVER see my handlebars again.
Godspeed my friend!
Many years back I had issues with the calipers keeping the brake pads just slightly against the rotors on rides, and the rotors & calipers would get HOT and make the fluid expand and then self apply the brakes ... UGH
so I usually check my rotors for being HOT after riding to be sure that isn't happening again - if your rotors are so hot to sizzle your skin - you got a problem -
I'm having the same problem with my 04 EG so I took of the lines to see if fluid was coming out and it did hooked everything back up and was going to flush new fluid in it and now the MC is not pushing any fluid. So now I have no front brakes. Any suggestion on rebuild kits I know harley sells them $70 kinda high of you ask me. Any where else selling rebuild kits. Going to rebuild calipers and MC front and rear.
I'm having the same problem with my 04 EG so I took of the lines to see if fluid was coming out and it did hooked everything back up and was going to flush new fluid in it and now the MC is not pushing any fluid. So now I have no front brakes. Any suggestion on rebuild kits I know harley sells them $70 kinda high of you ask me. Any where else selling rebuild kits. Going to rebuild calipers and MC front and rear.
Did you use the correct # DOT Fluid?? Synthetic as opposed to Non?? They don't mix..if you do.. you will not get any pressure..
My ten cents worth but I had a problem like that once where the caliper would slowly seize completely up. What we found was a brake hose coming apart inside and blocking return flow when the lever was released. The damaged part would push open towards the caliper and let fluid by then drop down like a "gate" and not let it return to the reservoir.
Probably the master cylinder has some crap in it.
It happened to me in the fall before last when the temps dropped into the 50's . I was done for the year and changed the fluid and bled it when spring hit. No problem all summer.
Then when fall hit again and the temps got down to the 50's it happened again. Pulled the master cylinder apart and cleaned it out thoroughly Refilled and bled it and no problem now.
I had it happen to my rear brakes a couple of years ago. By the time I got the bike to the shoulder the rotor was glowing red it was so hot. I couldn't find a problem with the caliper or lines. I bought a rebuild kit, but ended up replacing the caliper instead. I needed a good excuse to get a chrome caliper. lol But I've had no problems since replacing the caliper.
I wonder if during the regular service, you only changed the break fluid. The manual requires a "flushing" of the break fluid every 2 years. That take much ore fluid and more time, but would grant more success in removing the grim and debris that could eventually restrict flow. Of course, nothing completely eliminates the possibility of restricted flow entirely.
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