Heres my problem. I have a 2005 Electra Glide Std FI with V & H Ovals, Ness Big Sucker and PCIII. I'm having a problem with decel popping. I downloaded the program from Power Commander for this setup (program uses SE AC). I still got decel popping. I contacted Dyno Jet and they basicly added 30% to 0 throttle at 2000 rpm and above to this program and it still pops. Does anyone out there have this same setup and if so, would you be kind enough to share your mapping or some possible fixes?? Do V & H Ovals pop on decel more than other slip ons??

 

All pipes can pop even stock, but its a lean fuel condition not pipes that cause it. first when does it pop what RPM? I bet its below 2k rpm and If you added fuel in the 0% at 2k and above but still have rpm ranges below that with zero you can add fuel as long as you stay above your idle point, i would only add to rpm areas reading zero down to about 12-1300 rpm. the Se and big sucker are identical in operation so that would not matter.

 

You're right it does pop around the 2000 rpm range. I did increase the fuel from 1000 rpm up to 2000 @ 0 throttle. I only increased it to 3%. If I'm understanding you correctly I should be increasing the fuel below the 2000 rpm range. So actually the guy at Dyno Jet did'nt do the mapping correctly.

 

I had near the same set up on my 02 classic, and poped like crazy, they had me add 20% to all above 2k in the 0% row but then i had some but it was from 2k down to just above idle. try bumping the 3% to 20 above 1300 rpm, its impossible to give a map that is exact for your bike, to be dead on you will have to get it dynoed but you can get it extremly close just playing with it, some decell pop will always happen if you run it up in rpm and just let off, but you can get rid of most all when riding normal

 

I also have the 2005 Electra, vance & hines ovals, PCIII, SE air, had popping until last week when i installed the vance & hines dual head pipe, the bike runs GREAT! now.

 

I have slipons, stage 2 big sucker and a revtech DFO. No popping, no maps, no computers, just hook it up adjust it with a screwdriver while watching the tach. throw the power commander away, it makes tweaking your FI way more complicated than it has to be.

 

Ok boyz you heard the man, put those in a pile and I will haul them off for you! LOL

 

I set the 0 throttle position from 1250 rpm on up to 2000 rpms to 20%. From 2000 rpms on up it is set to 30%. I'll let you know how it works out when I ride to work tomorrow.

 

bgweasle mentioned rev techs DFO,,, first time I heard or seen anyone use or mention this,,, why>???

 

It's not as sexy as downloading maps and connecting a laptop so you don't hear that much about it, but it works well and is simple to adjust. It was invented by the same guy who invented the Dynojet jet kit. It installs by unclipping your injector wires, plugging the injector wires into the DFO then plugging the DFO into the injectors.

Here's info from Heavy Duty Cycles about how you calibrate it. It's as easy as it sounds. "Fuel pots" are little "*****" that are adjusted with a screwdriver. The DFO is about the size of a small TV remote.

Adjusting and Tuning the Rev Tech DFO

There are fuel pots that look like clock faces located under the Velcro on the back of the DFO opposite the wires. Removing the 2 cover screws can also access them. One o'clock is the minimum or off-position with 11 o'clock the maximum setting. The green fuel pot functions like a fuel mixture screw on a carburetor. It is usually set somewhere between 3 and 4 o'clock. It adjusts for light, (load), throttle position right from idle to highway cruising. It also is used to get rid off exhaust "popping" conditions. Hold the throttle at fast idle and adjust the pot clock face until it is running smoothest. The RPM switch pot selects at what RPM the green light will switch to the red light, which is usually between the 3 and 6 0'clock positions. Start at about 4:30. This should be set at a RPM just above your particular normal highway cruising RPM. It is usually around 4 o'clock face for normal riding while 5 to 7 o'clock is suitable for the high revving crowd. The yellow fuel pot operates like a carburetor accelerator pump. It adjusts for full throttle acceleration from off idle to when the red fuel pot light turns on. The red fuel pot, which functions like a carburetor main jet adjusts for full throttle acceleration at top end. On stock bikes the red pot should start at the same position as green. Hopped up bikes pot position will go up from this setting. It's impossible to say how much because it depends on fuel needs which is dictated by the particular modifications. The Rev Tech Digital Fuel Optimizer unit has "load sense" technology. The yellow fuel adjustment provides the optimal amount of fuel for full throttle acceleration. The green fuel pot allows for the best cruising fuel efficiency.