ABS Problem?

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Feb 27, 2011 | 03:48 PM

#11

gmurdock

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From: winter spring,fl

Quote:

Originally Posted by sgdiesel

Agreed, key question - did you bleed or simply push the pistons back?

I just pushed the pistons back so the old pads would go onto the rotors. That is what has me so baffled. I did it nice & slow as to not splash brake fluid all over.

Feb 27, 2011 | 04:12 PM

#12

geezer glide 56

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From: Mississippi

The rotor or rotors do not have to be bent much to cause the exact condition that you are describing...If your brakes maintain a firm lever when the bike is not in motion...And when you roll the bike you have to pump the lever to regain a firm lever...One or both of of your rotors are bent...When the bent spot rolls between the pads it forces your caliper pistons back into their bores causing you to have to pump the lever to regain brakes...If riding the bike...Do you feel the lever pulsing when you apply the brakes?

Feb 27, 2011 | 06:47 PM

#13

gmurdock

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From: winter spring,fl

I have another set of rotors will change out tomorrow. When I jacked up the front & spun the wheel 1 of the rotors was just touching a little. Could not see but could hear.

Quote:

Originally Posted by geezer glide 56

Feb 27, 2011 | 07:12 PM

#14

03dragonRK

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Joined: Nov 2007

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From: St. Bonifacius, MN

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmurdock

I have an 09 street glide with ABS. I changed the front wheel yesterday. Pushed the pads back when I removed them from rotors. Now when riding first pull on the front brake have almost nothing, second pull have regular brake? If setting still first pull have good brakes? Is there something I did wrong? Any suggestions as to how to fix without taking to dealer? Going to get new pads for front & rear Tuesday.
Has anyone used pads from Sixity Performance Parts, they have Ceramic, Sintered, or Organic Brake Pads?

This is an issue with your rotors. When a rotor is warped, bent, or out of alignment as the wheel turns the bent rotor pushes the pads furter back into the bores so it takes more then one pull to seat the pads to the rotor.
The give away is that as long as the wheel doesn't move only one pull is needed.

Feb 27, 2011 | 07:38 PM

#15

2black1s

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From: Simi Valley, CA

Definitely have to agree with the "bent" rotor diagnosis.

Feb 27, 2011 | 07:50 PM

#16

rg_dave

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Joined: Nov 2008

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From: Cypress, TX

A rotor is not that easy to bend. Did you drop the wheel on the rotor or have to force it an unusual amount to get the wheel in? I would say if the the rotor was warped it came that way.

So when you pushed the pads back you had the MC cap off? You say no fluid spilt. Is your fluid level correct? It is possible that you may have gotten air in the line. Have you checked codes? Do you have an ABS light on at all times?

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/gener...odes-dtcs.html