Road King lowering question
I have a '99 King and I stand 5' 2" tall. Believe me when I tell you that this bike was no where near the right size for me. I could not even touch toes to the ground when I inherited the bike from my father-in-law. I used a progressive rear lowering shock on the back to drop 2", I used a "reach seat" to drop me another 1" down and push me 1" forward, I then used a drop in lowering kit in the front forks to go down another 1 1/2". Total cost for parts and labor (all done at the Harley dealership here in Myrtle Beach) Seat $250, Rear lowring $350, Front lowering $605. $1200.00 The good news is I can now stand completely flat footed very very comfortably. Had I not inherited the bike, I probably would not have purchased a Road King just due to the height and weight however since my cost was just for the lowering I am incredibly happy with the King its the most comfortable and best driving bike I have ever had. They certainly don't have short people in mind when designing these machines but once we get them modified to fit us how incredible they are...
Installed a 2" lowering link just like the one some people are suggesting on my '99 Road King hoping to lower the seat height. Seat height before installing kit was 28.5", after the install and using the 2" hole in the lowering bracket my seat height only dropped 1/2" to 28". Pretty disappointed because I have short legs and was hoping this lowering kit would allow me to flat foot instead of tippy toe when stopped. Consulted an experienced Harley mechanic and he suggested I scrap the lowering bracket and install shorter shocks. That's what I am going to do since the stock shocks on my bike are no longer holding air and needed to be replaced anyway. Also, by installing the shorter shocks there is no need to modify the saddle bags since the angle of the the shocks doesn't change, just the length of the shock changes. Some bags don't need to be modified but the ones on my Road King would have since the indent on the back of the bag is just barely wide enough to accomodate the shock in it's stock position. Once you use the lowering link kit, it changes the angle of the shock enough and you have to modify the saddle bag. Trying to avoid the expensive replacement of the front fork springs, but if the shorter rear shocks don't completely lower the seat height, that might be my next option.
Android,
I put a set of 10.5 inch shocks in the rear and used to premium lowering suspension in the front from harley. The shocks were progressive heavy duty. Then I put the mustang tripper seat on the bike. The only caveat to doing this is your ground clearance is less (be careful of tall speed bumps) and there is somewhat of a lesser lean angle clearance with the bags (never had a problem with this and I did ride hard). I found the bike to be very stable and comfortable, doing several cross country trips.
I put a set of 10.5 inch shocks in the rear and used to premium lowering suspension in the front from harley. The shocks were progressive heavy duty. Then I put the mustang tripper seat on the bike. The only caveat to doing this is your ground clearance is less (be careful of tall speed bumps) and there is somewhat of a lesser lean angle clearance with the bags (never had a problem with this and I did ride hard). I found the bike to be very stable and comfortable, doing several cross country trips.
My advice would be to start with a new seat. Sometimes they can get expensive and you would think grabbing a lowering kit would be cheaper and faster but finding the perfect seat for you is the safest way to get your feet on the ground.
also you can lower the rear of your bike by itself without lowering the front but NEVER LOWER THE FRONT BY IT SELF without doing the same to the rear. its a dangerous combination. the whole geometry of the bike would be off. if anything you want the front to be higher with the rear squatted down. like a old school chopper. never the other way around.
if you go with springs and dampers and you find yourself having a hard time with curbs speed bumps pot holes and if you find that mounted parts are scraping such as exhaust foot controls you definitely went too low and its dangerous.
Id suggest never adjust or remove any damping blocks on your bike always upgrade the parts with new. progressive suspensions have a great team and will get you the best parts. some say that you can remove blocks from stock suspensions and get an inch lower. but if you fully extend your suspension riding you may be in for it personally I'm in boston i'm a city rider its hard enough to get around I dont want to be worried about how my bike is going to react.
but good luck ! hope you get out there and enjoy!
also you can lower the rear of your bike by itself without lowering the front but NEVER LOWER THE FRONT BY IT SELF without doing the same to the rear. its a dangerous combination. the whole geometry of the bike would be off. if anything you want the front to be higher with the rear squatted down. like a old school chopper. never the other way around.
if you go with springs and dampers and you find yourself having a hard time with curbs speed bumps pot holes and if you find that mounted parts are scraping such as exhaust foot controls you definitely went too low and its dangerous.
Id suggest never adjust or remove any damping blocks on your bike always upgrade the parts with new. progressive suspensions have a great team and will get you the best parts. some say that you can remove blocks from stock suspensions and get an inch lower. but if you fully extend your suspension riding you may be in for it personally I'm in boston i'm a city rider its hard enough to get around I dont want to be worried about how my bike is going to react.
but good luck ! hope you get out there and enjoy!














