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I've seen a number of posts about the inaccuracy of the gas gauge. Mine shows full for ~100 miles, then it drops off through the range of the gauge for the last 100. With my bike torn apart, I have an opportunity to manipulate the float inside the tank. So I've been thinking about which way to bend the wire supporting the float, and I'm thinking to get it to read lower earlier than half way through the tank, I'd want to bend the wire to LOWER the float to get it to register a lower level of gas earlier.
What do you guys think? Am I on track? Anybody else done this? I'm also wondering how much to bend the wire as this will basically be a one shot deal. I wouldn't take it all apart to re-tweak it.
I would check that the float is not hanging up on anything first, then personally I would leave it alone and use the trip odometer to judge fuel consumption. this it the first bike i've owned that has a fuel gauge and I don't trust it never will. set the trip meter to 0 each time I fuel up and off I go like every other bike I have had this method has never failed me yet.
Seriously, every vehicle I have owned acts the way you described. Sits on full for a long time, then drops. That is at least partly because you can put gas in above the top of the float travel.
The way they are designed I don't think you could ever get it to be linear.
no I agree if it is apart I would definately check it out to see if there is a problem such as the float hanging up I just don't think that I would start bending things
It's not hanging on anything, at least not now, it's OUT of the tank. Before I took it apart, the gauge worked over the full range of the gauge. liltrk is on the money in that the level of gas in the tank must be higher than the float, but thinking through this, if I go half of my range (100 miles) before it starts to move, then it follows that half of the gas in the tank when full is higher than the float......So in that case, maybe it would make more sense to raise the float in order to get movement earlier rather than later.
I'm not too concerned with bending the wire the float is on because all it should do--so long as I don't bend it so much that I create an obstruction for movement over the full range of the float--is change the way the gas level is portrayed on the gauge. I believe it can be made to more accurately represent the level of gas in the tank.
I've been wondering the same thing about my RG. An idiot light comes on on the speedometer when it gets down to about 1/8 tank. I'm not sure how far I can get when the light does come on. Maybe I'll take a gas can with gas along to intentionaly run out just so I know for sure.
J, I think you have it backwards. You would want to straighten the rod so the arm would drop sooner with the fuel. If you make the float deeper in the tank the full indication will last longer.
J, I think you have it backwards. You would want to straighten the rod so the arm would drop sooner with the fuel. If you make the float deeper in the tank the full indication will last longer.
I was looking at it like this:
If I lower the float, it takes less gas to keep the float at it's highest point of travel.
- Indicates full with less gas in the tank.
If i raise the float, it takes more gas to keep the float at it's highest point of travel.
- Starts dropping from full sooner because more gas is required to keep the float all the way up.
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