Installing SE compensator kit w/pics
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 4
From: Central Coast CA
OK I had changed my comp a while back probably 20k on it now and I had bit getting a little tick at idle raise the rpms a bit and it would go away. Sounded like it was coming from the comp. So in I went today to have a look I had cut the grooves when I installed it, ran only primary + the whole time and when I took it apart there is still a little bit of fretting on the usual surfaces. not much the sprocket was not completely rusted color, but the mating surfaces did show some fretting. I cleaned it up and I am going to put it back together, going to install a new chain tensioner later revised model and installing the comp bolt lock kit from AMS out of Texas. What I thought might have happen is my comp bolt may have loosened because I used the locking bar to tighten my bolt down the last time. The bolt seemed pretty tight I broke it loose with the torque wrench and it was a little over 140 lbs not the 165 I put it at. I will use the 1 3/4" wrench to hold the comp this time and see what happens. What I did notice on the primary case cover the chain had been slapping the structural ridges of the case at the middle of the rectangle trapezoidal area of the case. I ground all of this down and smoothed it out. Waiting for the parts to get here Thursday and I will report back the if tick is gone. I am going to go ahead with Redline Primary oil synthetic going back not the ATF MTL many have tried without success since primary + was not the total fix. Keep you posted later next week.
Last edited by SICKBAGGER; Mar 13, 2012 at 09:37 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,534
Likes: 10
Thanks
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 4
From: Central Coast CA
I dont have pic for you right mow using my phone but do a search its on here somewhere. Also google it the company is Automotive Machine Service in Texas I belive.
Its a hex headed washer that goes over the comp bolt, then there is two caps screws tha botlt through it into the 1 3/4 nut that drives the thrust washer. Looks like a good locking device so when I do get that 120r my primary will be ready just need to upgrade the clutch now!
Edit here is the link
http://www.automotivemachine.com/ima...8COMPLOCK1.JPG
Its a hex headed washer that goes over the comp bolt, then there is two caps screws tha botlt through it into the 1 3/4 nut that drives the thrust washer. Looks like a good locking device so when I do get that 120r my primary will be ready just need to upgrade the clutch now!
Edit here is the link
http://www.automotivemachine.com/ima...8COMPLOCK1.JPG
Last edited by SICKBAGGER; Mar 13, 2012 at 11:00 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 4
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Why not use a foldable washer instead of risking to loose one of the two allen screws? You observed a loss of torque on the bolt: this is normal stretch due to the 'hammering' of the ramps when the belleville washers become soft.
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 728
Likes: 25
From: griffin ga
is the rotor sliding out & hitting the case? or are you not over powering the magnets? it will come off.. just give it some time.. you need to grind out a section from about 6 oclock to 10 oclock...its not really bad @ all...
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
I started reading further into the thread looking for suggestions, and now see that people are saying the SE comp is junk too? Did I read that right or just someone biased towards another one?
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 728
Likes: 25
From: griffin ga
I didn't grind up to the 10 'o clock up to about 9 'o clock from 5 'o clock. But it looked like I had clearance from there up. It would come out till about 1/4 inch showing on the spline and stop. No wiggle or anything. That should be out past the magnets. I, put it back together, but maybe I'll try again tomorrow night. I hate to have to take it to a mechanic, but it's looking like a pretty good option right now. Frustrating as hell!
I started reading further into the thread looking for suggestions, and now see that people are saying the SE comp is junk too? Did I read that right or just someone biased towards another one?
I started reading further into the thread looking for suggestions, and now see that people are saying the SE comp is junk too? Did I read that right or just someone biased towards another one?
well sounds like you may need to check for the primary case clearance.. take some paper & see if it will slide around the rotor when pulling it off... if the paper binds anywhere when sliding the rotor off..its still hitting then.. take your time.. walk away if needed... i have done this same proceadure to 2 bike so far... worked fine..& I hope the s/e comp sprocket holds up...I have 2 of em...
you will need to grind most all of the ridge or hump away for the rotor to be removed..
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
well sounds like you may need to check for the primary case clearance.. take some paper & see if it will slide around the rotor when pulling it off... if the paper binds anywhere when sliding the rotor off..its still hitting then.. take your time.. walk away if needed... i have done this same proceadure to 2 bike so far... worked fine..& I hope the s/e comp sprocket holds up...I have 2 of em...
you will need to grind most all of the ridge or hump away for the rotor to be removed..
you will need to grind most all of the ridge or hump away for the rotor to be removed..
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 6
From: South Dakota
Just did mine today. Best tool I found was the sandpaper wheel you use with a dremel. Took a few attempts until it finally came off. Two needle nose pliers to pull it off worked best. Used formula + and it shifts super smooth. Took longer to get the new magnet housing back on! Resisted the urge to bang on it and it finally Popped on the splines.
Hang in there. Scale of 1-10 with bars and cams included this was a 3-4. Bars 10 cams 8. PYO bars were a bitch!
Hang in there. Scale of 1-10 with bars and cams included this was a 3-4. Bars 10 cams 8. PYO bars were a bitch!