Installing SE compensator kit w/pics
#641
08-22-2018, 08:22 AM
Related question....didn't want to start a new thread but could...
2012 Ultra, Comp is fine.
1) If you pull the compensator to do other primary work do you need to use a 'new' compensator bolt when reinstalling?
Manual states to but I'm kinda unclear what the point is? why can't you use the original bolt?
It's my understanding that when reusing the fasteners/bolts they can stretch which effects torque rating. There's several critical fasteners they recommend this for like rotors, cam and the comp bolt among others. I keep extra of these on-hand as well as some seals and bearings like wheel bearings. If working on that particular area the bolts/seals are in the drawer so they get replaced. Figure they're cheap so why not keep em around. Wouldn't be much fun having a comp or rotor bolts come loose 1500mi from home.
2) ALSO, have the torque specs changed for the 2012 model? (reinstalling OEM comp which is fine) Manual states a torquing sequence, but wondered if the torque values had changed like the new SE comp kit you buy at HD.
Use the torque rating stated in the manual/instructions for the comp you have whether it's an older stock version or the SE. I suspect it's as you previously described 100ft lbs back off then 175ft lbs. That's what I used for the SE comp that uses the T-70 as that was the recommended procedure. I'm thinking the 2012 models have the SE comp?
Thanks.
2012 Ultra, Comp is fine.
1) If you pull the compensator to do other primary work do you need to use a 'new' compensator bolt when reinstalling?
Manual states to but I'm kinda unclear what the point is? why can't you use the original bolt?
It's my understanding that when reusing the fasteners/bolts they can stretch which effects torque rating. There's several critical fasteners they recommend this for like rotors, cam and the comp bolt among others. I keep extra of these on-hand as well as some seals and bearings like wheel bearings. If working on that particular area the bolts/seals are in the drawer so they get replaced. Figure they're cheap so why not keep em around. Wouldn't be much fun having a comp or rotor bolts come loose 1500mi from home.
2) ALSO, have the torque specs changed for the 2012 model? (reinstalling OEM comp which is fine) Manual states a torquing sequence, but wondered if the torque values had changed like the new SE comp kit you buy at HD.
Use the torque rating stated in the manual/instructions for the comp you have whether it's an older stock version or the SE. I suspect it's as you previously described 100ft lbs back off then 175ft lbs. That's what I used for the SE comp that uses the T-70 as that was the recommended procedure. I'm thinking the 2012 models have the SE comp?
Thanks.
FPV
#642
08-22-2018, 08:52 AM
Grand HDF Member
Thanks, 2012 manual states torque to 100 ft/lb then back off 1 turn then re-torque to 140.
Does not have a T70 (has hex head bolt) but apparently they did put the 'improved' comp in the 2012s, no oil deflector. Have not had issues w/ this comp.
Wonder if I should bump up the retorque to 175 or (?) at least 150-160
Does not have a T70 (has hex head bolt) but apparently they did put the 'improved' comp in the 2012s, no oil deflector. Have not had issues w/ this comp.
Wonder if I should bump up the retorque to 175 or (?) at least 150-160
#643
08-22-2018, 09:07 AM
Personally, I'd use the recommended torque as per the manual. Can't comment on raising torque value on that bolt but maybe someone else knows and can suggest different. Be sure to use the recommended type of Loctite and let it cure before starting the motor. Thinking I used the high strength red as that was what was recommended.
Just had an after thought....Maybe call the service dept at your local dealer and see what they currently recommended for the torque of that bolt.
Just had an after thought....Maybe call the service dept at your local dealer and see what they currently recommended for the torque of that bolt.
Last edited by FPV; 08-22-2018 at 09:21 AM. Reason: add
#644
08-22-2018, 09:20 AM
Grand HDF Member
Personally, I'd use the recommended torque as per the manual. Can't comment on raising torque value on that bolt but maybe someone else knows and can suggest different. Be sure to use the recommended type of Loctite and let it cure before starting the motor. Thinking I used the high strength red as that was what was recommended.
#645
08-22-2018, 08:41 PM
Personally, I'd use the recommended torque as per the manual. Can't comment on raising torque value on that bolt but maybe someone else knows and can suggest different. Be sure to use the recommended type of Loctite and let it cure before starting the motor. Thinking I used the high strength red as that was what was recommended.
Just had an after thought....Maybe call the service dept at your local dealer and see what they currently recommended for the torque of that bolt.
Just had an after thought....Maybe call the service dept at your local dealer and see what they currently recommended for the torque of that bolt.
#646
08-26-2018, 09:02 PM
Grand HDF Member
Just throwing this out there for someone down the road....
I replaced the HD OEM tensioner with the Southern Oregon Hot Bikes HB125-07 Hydraulic Automatic Primary Chain Tensioner.
Install requires blue loctite btw (I called to ask, wasn't sure red or blue)....and the bolt torque is in the video.
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I replaced the HD OEM tensioner with the Southern Oregon Hot Bikes HB125-07 Hydraulic Automatic Primary Chain Tensioner.
Install requires blue loctite btw (I called to ask, wasn't sure red or blue)....and the bolt torque is in the video.
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Wanted to note (for someone searching in the future) that you can use 5/16 (or 8mm) washers to shim this out from the back of the inner primary so the pchain chain is 'centered' on the shoe.
Also, requires blue loctite and torque to 18-20 ft/lb.
Unclear why they don't provide a basic PDF with the part to tell you this :/
SOHO Southern Oregon Hot Bikes Primary Chain Tensioner HB125-07
#647
03-21-2019, 12:47 AM
#648
07-18-2019, 09:26 AM
q?
bought a used 2016 Limited, TC103, 9750 miles.
rides SMOOTH as a baby's butt, i mean like scary smooth bike (had a 50k Mile 2009 Street Glide for few months that was lowered too far)
rode it without ear plugs for a few miles, and could hear a metal "slam" in gear, when rolling ON and OFF the throttle, is that the compensator, or the rubber thing in the rear wheel?
bought a used 2016 Limited, TC103, 9750 miles.
rides SMOOTH as a baby's butt, i mean like scary smooth bike (had a 50k Mile 2009 Street Glide for few months that was lowered too far)
rode it without ear plugs for a few miles, and could hear a metal "slam" in gear, when rolling ON and OFF the throttle, is that the compensator, or the rubber thing in the rear wheel?
#650
01-24-2020, 08:22 PM
