Chrome Wheel Problem
Good morning!
Does any one have experience or knowledge of problems with after market chrome wheels on a 2008 Ultra (FLHTCU) with ABS? Since changing from factory to after market chrome wheels, I'm not sure that my ABS works. But more importantly, my rear wheel keeps coming loose on me. Any comments or suggestions would be most appreciated. Thank you.
John
blajj@yahoo.com
Does any one have experience or knowledge of problems with after market chrome wheels on a 2008 Ultra (FLHTCU) with ABS? Since changing from factory to after market chrome wheels, I'm not sure that my ABS works. But more importantly, my rear wheel keeps coming loose on me. Any comments or suggestions would be most appreciated. Thank you.
John
blajj@yahoo.com
If your ABS is not working your light should stay on over 3mph. If you replaced the bearing like Dpete said above, you need to make sure it is facing the right direction and is one with the sensor in it. Greenish tan color side goes out towards the sensor.
ABS lights comes on initially at start-up, but then goes out. Bearings and sensor are mated correctly. As for the loosening - what happens once my rear wheel is mounted and I have made sure that the adjuster cams on both sides of wheel contacts the cam nub on both sides of frame. Then I tighten the cone nut according the Harley specifications.
After riding for a while or if quick acceleration occurs, I can feel the bike trying to fish-tail on me and I hear clatter from the drive belt. This is a result of the rear wheel has moved forward causing slack in the belt. Visibly I can see that the adjuster cams has moved counter clock wise from the cam nubs. Then I have to limp home.
I believe the rear wheel safety feature to prevent slippage of rear wheel is a poor one by HD as compared to previous owned jap bikes. Those bikes has locking nut mechanisms to prevent rear movement. I thought about drilling holes through my adjuster cams to fame to prevent movement or having cam nubs welded above the cam adjusters. That way, the cam adjusters will have cam nubs above and below to prevent movement of rear wheel. Thanks.
After riding for a while or if quick acceleration occurs, I can feel the bike trying to fish-tail on me and I hear clatter from the drive belt. This is a result of the rear wheel has moved forward causing slack in the belt. Visibly I can see that the adjuster cams has moved counter clock wise from the cam nubs. Then I have to limp home.
I believe the rear wheel safety feature to prevent slippage of rear wheel is a poor one by HD as compared to previous owned jap bikes. Those bikes has locking nut mechanisms to prevent rear movement. I thought about drilling holes through my adjuster cams to fame to prevent movement or having cam nubs welded above the cam adjusters. That way, the cam adjusters will have cam nubs above and below to prevent movement of rear wheel. Thanks.
ABS lights comes on initially at start-up, but then goes out. Bearings and sensor are mated correctly. As for the loosening - what happens once my rear wheel is mounted and I have made sure that the adjuster cams on both sides of wheel contacts the cam nub on both sides of frame. Then I tighten the cone nut according the Harley specifications.
After riding for a while or if quick acceleration occurs, I can feel the bike trying to fish-tail on me and I hear clatter from the drive belt. This is a result of the rear wheel has moved forward causing slack in the belt. Visibly I can see that the adjuster cams has moved counter clock wise from the cam nubs. Then I have to limp home.
I believe the rear wheel safety feature to prevent slippage of rear wheel is a poor one by HD as compared to previous owned jap bikes. Those bikes has locking nut mechanisms to prevent rear movement. I thought about drilling holes through my adjuster cams to fame to prevent movement or having cam nubs welded above the cam adjusters. That way, the cam adjusters will have cam nubs above and below to prevent movement of rear wheel. Thanks.
After riding for a while or if quick acceleration occurs, I can feel the bike trying to fish-tail on me and I hear clatter from the drive belt. This is a result of the rear wheel has moved forward causing slack in the belt. Visibly I can see that the adjuster cams has moved counter clock wise from the cam nubs. Then I have to limp home.
I believe the rear wheel safety feature to prevent slippage of rear wheel is a poor one by HD as compared to previous owned jap bikes. Those bikes has locking nut mechanisms to prevent rear movement. I thought about drilling holes through my adjuster cams to fame to prevent movement or having cam nubs welded above the cam adjusters. That way, the cam adjusters will have cam nubs above and below to prevent movement of rear wheel. Thanks.
Yes! That's the only way you can prevent axle and cam adjuster from turning when tightening the acorn nut. I'm no shade tree mechanic. I believe it's just a poor design by Harley with their rear wheels that are not OEM.
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TomWoodgeard
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May 14, 2013 02:06 PM



