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Yeah, just slapping in a set of 107 flat tops wouldn't be a big leap forward. If I do a 107 build, it would be at 10.5 static cr with longer cams and head work. Thats about as far as I'd want to go without welding and blueprinting the crank.
If I pull the motor out of the frame to build up the crank, it makes sense to go ahead and have the cases machined for larger spigots. But when you start adding up the costs for crank work, plus buying big bore cylinders vs boring your stock ones, the costs ramp up so fast, I bounce back to thinking about doing the 107. The only downside to that is that I know I'd still want more.
I hear you. I'm easier to please, or maybe just more timid from past exploits, as I'm happy even with my modest setup. If I had yours I would be very happy, I'm sure, but everyone is different in what they want. After having done this before in other bikes and cars I know that when you increase power you likely will need to make changes in other areas, like clutch springs, crank upgrades, etc. The last time I got bitten by the upgrade bug was in my turbocharged car, which was no more than an ECM upgrade, but it unleashed a chain of events that I didn't anticipate, like clutch-disk and pressure plate changes. On top of that pump gas wasn't up to the extra boost in summer so I installed water-injection, which didn't work as expected. So now I have a supercar in winter and about what I had before in summer. By now the car is getting old and my zeal for doing more has disappeared. In fact, as I get older this zeal is lower across-the-board.
Anyway, I digress as usual. The bottom-line is that I do even "bolt-in" upgrades with a great deal of caution, and you seem to have your bases covered in the same context. I was assured the cam-only upgrade would not require further enhancements, and so far it has worked out that way.
When going through the rocker boxes, and not cutting the push rods, is it still necessary to go through the process of removing the push rod retainers/covers?
The push rod covers pop off & on very easy, I think your need to remove them to get a clip in the top of the lifters to hold them up during the cam swap...
I still put you on top of my list for intelligent diagnosis and perseverance in the face of doom. Murphy had you in his sights during that cam job and he didn't let go soon enough. That was a bum deal but you came through with flying colors.
I have my set of 255's in my hand now.
How can I verify that the alignment dots are in the correct position, before installing them in the bike?
How can I verify that the alignment dots are in the correct position, before installing them in the bike?
You can download the Tech Tip (TT296) here. If you have trouble downloading it, take the rear cam and look at it from the splined end with the dots visible. Orient the wide tooth in the splined end at 12 o'clock and count CW. The dot should be on the 6th groove. See photo.
You can download the Tech Tip (TT296) here. If you have trouble downloading it, take the rear cam and look at it from the splined end with the dots visible. Orient the wide tooth in the splined end at 12 o'clock and count CW. The dot should be on the 6th groove. See photo.
Damn, Iclick to the rescue again.................
What do I do if my new cam dot doesn't line up on the 6th groove?
It's not that tough, having said that if you have the money to have your dealer or Indie do it, pay them and go do something you enjoy doing. It's not that fun.
Mark
I'll have to disagree too. I enjoy wrenching on my bike almost as much a riding.
When going through the rocker boxes, and not cutting the push rods, is it still necessary to go through the process of removing the push rod retainers/covers?
Thanks
For some reason, some guys get a little stressed about the pushrod covers. They're really no problem at all. To pop the clip out, simply poke a flat blade screwdriver into the retainer loop, and rotate from the bottom outwards. The clip will pop right off, and you can collapse the pushrod cover. You can push down slightly on the pushrod cover with your other hand if you want while popping the clip out, but that's not necessary.
To reinstall, extend the pushrod cover so it's seated at both the top and bottom, then slide in the clip, top edge first. Slip a flat blade screwdriver under the bottom edge, and lever the screwdriver upwards, while pushing the clip inwards with your other hand.
It's really easy after you've done it once. There is a tool you can buy, but it's not necessary, just a little luxury.
Aside from the help given here, add this: When you remove the cam cover, some oil will flow out onto the frame. There is a wiring harness strapped along the frame. Take a piece of aluminum foil and wrap the area under the cam cover first and it will be a lot less to clean up afterwards. Sam's club even has the foil cut to size for hot dog vendors.
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