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Lightbulb swap, headlight--highest watts

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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 05:02 PM
  #11  
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List= lost

iPod finger typing

Mike
 
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Daddio
are those PIAA ones the sort of bluish tint/glow or are they just brighter more traditional shade of incadescent yellowish color.
I dont really care so much as just wanting a cheap alternative with more distance and light power.
All depends on their K rating....some will have a purple tint, some a blue tint,
and some will stay clear white.

These aren't a "cheap alternative".....$40 a bulb, give/take
 
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by DrPlastic
Basic electronics formula (Ohm's law) tells ya that the headlight circuit is on a 15 amp fuse at 12 VDC so it can handle up to 180 watts total.
Ok thanks Dr. P. I am just worried about frying the wires or some other electrcal catastophe if i put a bulb like this in there.

http://store.candlepower.com/48nahiwamola.html

why do they say upgraded wiring and relays are needed? I am in the dark so to speak when it comes to anything electrical or related to wiring.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 06:41 PM
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I tried Silverstars in my ride. They kept burning out in ~6 months. Parts guy said they burn brighter and hotter so they burn themselves out. I'm back to regulars.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 06:58 PM
  #15  
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40 or 50 dollars beats what harley wants for there new headlight.....$500 +
 
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 08:02 PM
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+3 on the Silverstar
But I like the Ultra I have had it on my bike for over a year now. Very Happy you can buy it from any auto parts store I believe.

 
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 08:09 PM
  #17  
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I went with the PIAA, they were great, then for a few less dollars I installed some HID's I bought on e-bay, they're even better.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 08:12 PM
  #18  
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You should look at two specs for the bulbs. First look at the amp draw to see if the circuit can handle it. A few extra shouldn't hurt, but some bulbs are 3x stock. Second, look at the color rating. Color is rated in degrees Kelvin. Stock bulbs are 2500-3000K which is the yellowish light. At 5-6,000K you will get a very white light which is much more visible at the same wattage. These ratings don't change the actual temperature of the bulb, just the color of the light.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Daddio
If you use too high of wattage bulb will it overheat and fry the wires or melt the housing?
12 volt electrical system, 55 watt bulb, pulls about 5 amps

12 volts, 100 watts 8.33 amps

you are asking the wiring to carry an extra 66% load, and with the price of copper these days nobody is designing in that amount of overbuild into a wiring harness or the connectors and plastic around the connectors may not take the heat as they too may be undersized for the current draw and the plastic may not be rated fr the heat.


Personally I have a SilverStar bulb in my 03 Glide, and it is so bright I took the driving lights off the bike and never use the spots
 
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 08:34 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by DrPlastic
Basic electronics formula (Ohm's law) tells ya that the headlight circuit is on a 15 amp fuse at 12 VDC so it can handle up to 180 watts total.
Originally Posted by 10350
You should look at two specs for the bulbs. First look at the amp draw to see if the circuit can handle it. A few extra shouldn't hurt, but some bulbs are 3x stock. Second, look at the color rating. Color is rated in degrees Kelvin. Stock bulbs are 2500-3000K which is the yellowish light. At 5-6,000K you will get a very white light which is much more visible at the same wattage. These ratings don't change the actual temperature of the bulb, just the color of the light.
So amps are more of a concern than watts as far putting a strain on the wiring? Not to let on how dumb i am concerning thsi stuff but, do you know how many amps my standard factory bulb is rated at?...and what the max amount the stock wiring/circuit/fuse?? whatever is set up for?
 
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