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I like to have the right tool for the job. I guess you could call me a tool junkie. Anyway I am thinking about putting in the SE compensator shortly when I do the 10K service. I would like to get the Kent-Moore tool number HD-47977 (locking bar) to do the job. Any ideas on a way to buy this ?? I used to have a dealer that would sometimes order tools for me, but he is now 1000 miles away. Thanks in advance Be Safe JIM
Georges Garage will have it for at lot less $. I just cut a 3/8" x 1" piece of flat bar to 5 5/8". Installing the se comp you should use a 1 3/4" wrench to hold the nut as with the bar it is hard to get the right torque.
I found that a simple 6 inch long 3/8in drive extension works great for this and just about everyone already has one.
The new SE compensator is set up different and you can not hold things still with the locking tool and as stated above you need a 1-3/4 in wrench to hold compensator during final torque. you can get one affordable at Harbor Freight or Tractor supply.
I found that a simple 6 inch long 3/8in drive extension works great for this and just about everyone already has one.
The new SE compensator is set up different and you can not hold things still with the locking tool and as stated above you need a 1-3/4 in wrench to hold compensator during final torque. you can get one affordable at Harbor Freight or Tractor supply.
The 1 3/4 wrench, is it a Box or Open end ???? Thanks in advance Be Safe JIM
Georges Garage will have it for at lot less $. I just cut a 3/8" x 1" piece of flat bar to 5 5/8". Installing the se comp you should use a 1 3/4" wrench to hold the nut as with the bar it is hard to get the right torque.
If the bar is locking both sprockets as it's designed to do, there should be no problem with torquing the nut. You may have to move the bar up or down on the sprocket tooth to find the right lock position but once you find it and apply pressure to the comp nut with your torque wrench, everything locks up and you should be able to get the necessary torque on the nut.
I have found that using the bar you have to preload the Belville washers until the comp is almost to the end of the ramps. Using the wrench eliminates the springs.
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