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Removing Rear O2 Sensor

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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 10:40 AM
  #11  
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Anti sieze should be used on install. The new sensors even come with some on the threads. It needs to be sensor safe, though and not over used.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 10:40 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Potato_Potato
There are better things to use - WD40 is a water displacing product.

Try this stuff
PB Penetrating Catalyst
Bought some this morning at Wally World.......Letting it soak for a while and spraying every two hours. Then I am going to torch it to heat it up. Should I heat it up then turn it loose or heat it up, Spray the PB then cool down and try to loosen?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 03:42 PM
  #13  
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Let me update my situation. I have tried so hard to get this rear sensor out that I might have to take off the headers to deal with this better. I soaked the hell out of the threads with PB overnight and torched it many times to expand the metal and this thing is stuck. I did at first get it to turn about 3/4 after my first torch. But after that. I could not get it to turn anymore. It is so hard my hands are a,most blistered from the bar........Keep in mind I am only using a propane torch and maybe I should get a acetylene torch but that **** costs money.....So what would you do?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 04:22 PM
  #14  
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thats tough...one time I had to put valve guides in a fork lift, and it was recommended that I first put them in dry ice to shrink them....so maybe if you put dry ice on the sensor it might shrink it enough to loosen it.....also after you got it to turn out the 3//4 turn would it go back in??if so you might be able to just work it back and forth while you spray it.....also in the past (on other bolts) I have had success with useing an air impact and just letting it pound away at the bolt for a half hour or so...but that would mean taking the pipe off the bike...
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 04:32 PM
  #15  
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Stupid question, but why are you removing the sensor? Do you need it for another headpipe? If you don't need it, just unplug it.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 04:51 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by sageone
Stupid question, but why are you removing the sensor? Do you need it for another headpipe? If you don't need it, just unplug it.
Not a stupid question. I am removing it to put the Rev. Perf. EMS sensors in.....
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 06:43 PM
  #17  
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I hope you don't hear the word " disimilar" metal! I tried to replace the o2 sensor on my toyota. Would not turn, couldn't break it free, then all of a sudden started turning easy, but would not come out! Turned out to be an $800.00 repair. Threads weld together.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 06:52 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Redcrow
I hope you don't hear the word " disimilar" metal! I tried to replace the o2 sensor on my toyota. Would not turn, couldn't break it free, then all of a sudden started turning easy, but would not come out! Turned out to be an $800.00 repair. Threads weld together.
That would suck.....I hope mine did not weld together....I really never heard that before especially on a header pipe when temps are crazy hot.......Would this be true on an HD sensor? If that is the case I would replace the pipes before spending crazy money for HD to take it out....I am getting Fat Cats this winter anyways.....
 
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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 05:29 AM
  #19  
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well, now I know you don't need to keep the sensor....I say take the pipe off, put it in a vise, get a big wrench (think pipe wrench) or a long pipe and put it over your breaker bar, and get that sucker out....if it takes the threads with it you can just drill it out and put in a helicoil....
 
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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 06:28 AM
  #20  
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I hate to talk about this again. But after I got home today from work and a soaked o2 sensor all night. The sensor will move about a half an inch clockwise and counterclockwise. After that it won't budge at all. Could this indicate a warped sensor from heating up too much?
 
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