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My front brakes on my 09 RK have started to pulse pretty bad when coming to a stop so I took it up to the dealer since it's still on warranty. They checked the rotors and said everything is well within specs. They changed the brake shoes but said there was nothing they could do with the rotors under the warranty. They said they have this kind of problem every so often and ussually sell someone new rotors. I was a little disappointed and started to do some research on warped rotors and pulsing brakes. I came across some interesting articles about pad build up on a disk being misdiagnosed as warped rotors and they recommended cleaning the disk with Garnet sand paper to remove the build up. I tried it and it didn't do anything. Out of curiosity I took a micrometer and checked the thickness of the two front disk. Both disk had a narrow area on them, in the same location of the wheel, that was .001- .0015 thinner than the rest of the disk. Since I really don't want to buy new rotors if I don't have to I thought I would try spinning one of the disk 180' and see how the brakes felt. It cleared up the pulsing feeling by 95 percent. I can definitely live with this and if it starts to come back I'll realign the low spots again. If this happens to the rear disk then I guess I'll have to replace the disk. Anyway I thought I would just pass this on incase anyone else has been having a similar problem.
Your front brake pulses pretty bad & the dealer says that there's nothing that can be done???
I'd find another dealer. Especially when you figured out a way to make it better & it didn't involve anything more than a little labor.
I was talking to my dealer a few days ago about excessive noise coming from the front brake when going down the road (no brake applied). We discussed the whole rotor warp thing, and I was surprised to hear him say pretty much the same thing... it's normal and acceptable. According to them, a "squeek squeek squeek" sound as you go down the road is part of the experience. WTF?
I'm experiencing a slight pulsating in the front on my 09 RKC also. I think I read that the runout needs to be checked and .008 or less is within spec. I thought about just going with floating rotors but I didn't know how much they really improve stopping power on a touring bike? Also not sure how to check the runout on a rotor?
I'm experiencing a slight pulsating in the front on my 09 RKC also. I think I read that the runout needs to be checked and .008 or less is within spec. I thought about just going with floating rotors but I didn't know how much they really improve stopping power on a touring bike? Also not sure how to check the runout on a rotor?
Floating rotors shouldn't change your stopping power at all. As far as checking your runout you'd need a dial indicator and a magnetic base to check them. Position the indicator on the rotor after mounting the magnetic base in a secure position. Zero the indicator and spin the wheel slowly around. You can read the runout directly on the indicator.
Floating rotors shouldn't change your stopping power at all. As far as checking your runout you'd need a dial indicator and a magnetic base to check them. Position the indicator on the rotor after mounting the magnetic base in a secure position. Zero the indicator and spin the wheel slowly around. You can read the runout directly on the indicator.
Floating rotors dont change stopping force, they allow the rotor to expand radially as it gets red hot and not dish like a solid rotor will. Floating rotors give better performance as they get very hot, which is why they are on sport bikes.
If you have anti-lock brakes, keep the magnet away from the forks. It screws them up. Here is how I checked mine. I jacked up the bike, cut two small pieces of an inner tube to place on the pad of my two jack stands and positioned them under the front axle, then lowered the bike onto the jackstands. This keeps the front wheel off the ground, and keeps it from moving left/right. Then I took my Reese trailer hitch insert, which weighs about 30lbs, and laid it on the floor, and that's what I used to put the dial indicator on so it would not affect my anti-lock brakes. Then I positioned the dial indicator button to rest against the rotor at the outside so it wouldnt go into the cooling holes, and turned the tire by hand watching the indicator. I marked the low spot, and then re-adjusted it to see the max to min reading. If it is over a certain amount, it should be removed. I bent mine with a rubber mallet and wood dowel and got it a lot better than it was when I started.
I guess that all that the dealership checks is the run out for a warped rotor. In my case the disk has worn unevenly creating the pulsing. Seems like poor quality manufacturing. If I do get new rotors I'll try to find a good quality that will wear evenly. I'm going to stop by the dealership when I get a chance and let them what I did and see if the rotors are warranted for this type of wear.
So are the floating rotors less likely to warp? I thought they performed better because they cooled quicker? I plan to go to Lyndall gold + pads when I change my pads mostly to reduce brake dust so the wide whites will be easier to clean. Are the pads going to create more problems and heat?
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