Can you use Mobile 1 in all three applications like you can the HD Syn3??
Also, does anyone know if SYN3 or any oil for that matter, has a shelf life?? I still have some Syn3 left in my garage from when I sold my first Harley a couple of years ago,...is it still OK to use??

 

HD oil, as I understand it, is made by Citgo... no need to fund that MF'r...

As others have stated... run Mobil 1 20w50 or Amsoil M/C oil, your bike will be happy and she will provide you with many happy miles of service.

 

Run what ever you want......as long as you change it regularly you will be fine.......I have run Havoline 20/50 for eons with no issues..... There is no best either........I have seen amsoil fail just as much as any other....I have run royal purple, havoline, amsoil, castrol, valvoline and even napa with no issues.......

Everyone here will have an opinion so take it all with a grain a salt......buy what YOU want...

 

Threadjack here, but if you already have 34k on it is there any reason to switch to synthetic? Not sure what the original owner used, can you tell by looking at it?

 

Yes, you must use HD oil, if you switch brands the engine will blow up!!

Seriously, at the risk of , if your 06 has run with dino all this time, stick with who brung ya to the dance. No reason to go to synthetic.

 

Pretty soon they are going to make a separate forum for oil threads, you know like one for politics or religion

I always read these threads for some unknown reason and they always say the same thing, which makes me wonder why I read them...which, nevermind...

 

you can use mobil 1 motorcycle 20w/50w in all three holes. some folks who are out of warranty use mobil 1 motorcycle 10w/40w in the primary.

 

This is probably the biggest can of worms question ever asked. Everybody has a different opinion on what oil to use. I was going to stay out of this but I have a few reasons why I use what I use.I am not a chemist but have worked for an OEM and was the buyer for Diesel, Gasoline and Gear oils we bottled under our brand name for sale through our qualified dealers. This put me in contact with some pretty high end engineers of oil products.

I used Penzoil conventional oil in my Chevy truck for 230K miles. These engineers always gave me crap for using PO. I had a head gasket blow and I replaced the engine and pulled one head off the old block. There was no measurable ridge in the cylinder bores, no taper to the bores and cross hatch was still visible in all 4 bores through the wear areas. I just ignored there jeers from then on.

Here are some of my observations.
Most people who use Synthetic oil can afford it and don't know why they use it.Most people who don't use Synthetic think they can not afford it.Some don't use Synthetic because they have used conventional oil all their life and won't change.I use Synthetic because it is more economical for my situation.If you use the correct grade conventional oil and change it at the proper time it does a great job. This is where most people miss the boat. All oil has 3 things that affect when it should be changed.
Time / Miles(run hrs) / Temperature.

Most full Synthetic oils do not break down over short time periods. Conventional oils and their additives are usually only good for 3 to 4 months after they are first brought up to operating temperature (activates additives). If you are not putting miles on your conventional oil you still need to change it at the recommended monthly change time.

Synthetic oil is usually good for at least 1.5 times more miles (run hrs) than conventional oil.

If you over heat conventional oil it is not longer oil and you should change it now. Not after you ride 200 miles home.

At 1.5 + more run time and way more months to change plus filter and labor cost it is less expensive to run the synthetic oil. I change my own but my time is worth $$ too.

If you look at your driving habits you can make a decision based on cost and time and effort and pick your oil. Just remember in the United States oil companies can advertise oil as Full Synthetic and it is made from a group 3 base oil (mineral) and not group 5 base oil (Synthetic).

07 FLHTUC 35K miles
5 micron filter (Harley but looking for 5 mic somewhere else)Mobil 1 20W50 V Twin Full Synthetic8K miles / Yr on bike

2001 Chevy Silverado 76K miles
Wix Extended life Filter
Mobile 1 Extended 5W30 Full Synthetic (recomended 15K miles 1 yr)
6K miles / yr on truck

2004 Chevy Venture 62K miles
Mobile 1 Extended 5W30 Full Synthetic (recomended 15K miles 1 yr)
6K miles / yr on Van

 

Any 20 - 50 MOTORCYCLE oil can be used. Car oil doesn't have the needed shear factors that motorcycle oil has.

Any motorcycle oil syn or mineral will do the job for the 5K intervals that HD requires.

The difference between mineral oil and syn is this. After 100,000 of good care with mineral oil you will need a overhaul. With 100,000 miles with good care and syn oil you will need an overhaul but will have less $ to do it.

Syn oil has uniform molecule size which mineral oil does not. This results in a very tiny reduction of friction and therefore heat from friction. But if you have an oil cooler then that overrides the advantage.

Another factor overrides the advantage is that all oils are engineered in today's products. So, many mineral oils have friction reducers such as moly in them that have less friction than syn oil.

Everyone has their favorite oil type and brand but the overwhelming fact is that there has not been one single long term study that can show a reduction in maintenance cost of one type/brand over another.

In fact a seven year study of 74 New York cabs using Mobile I did not show any reduced maintenance cost over mineral oil. So their cost of using syn oil made the 7 years of service cost much more.

The only advantage is in the owners head. The "Peace of Mind" factor. The "I use the best for my high dollar bike."

The same thing with doing changes at 2,500 miles for the "It's cheap insurance" crowd.

The absolute fact is it is a waste of money and a natural resource to do more that what the engineers state is the correct mileage.

But do whatever you want. It is your money and your bike.

If you really want to help your motor, the absolute best thing that you can do to make it run stronger and last longer is to put an oil cooler on it. Then get rid of the 14.7 to 1 AFR with a programmer. That is what folks that really care about their motor do. In comparison the type of oil is just a pissy little detail of little importance.

 

here's a nice chart. notice that Vtwin motorcycle oil has the highest molybdenum, zinc, phosphorus and boron content. So basically, if you use car oil, your bike is not getting enough vitamins.