The crappy gearing on the 08's ain't helping either. I rode my buddy's 08 streetglide, and stalled the damn thing trying to take off the first time.

 

When I had my '08, I had to really get into the throttle while taking off, especially when riding 2 up. It got worse the hotter the bike got. I never did find a cure but had my suspicions about the compensator. My 2010 is a whole different animal. Smooth as silk and plenty of grunt taking off. So was my '03 EG Classic.

 

Thats exactly what I am experiencing. Did you try to remap yours?

 

Unfortunately I don't have any way to get in touch with the P.O. I sent an email to the HD dealership that the bike was purchased from and the upgrades were done at, but all they would tell me was the bike had a 103 kit, Rhinehart pipes and a race tuner. From doing some research, it appears I would need the software program for the tuner. Don't suppose that is something I could download online is it?

 

In additional to my earlier post about plugs and wires, you would also want to make sure that the clutch is adjusted properly. If you put a load on the engine too fast via poor clutch adjustment, you will experience launch issues.

 

Do a search on the Screaming Eagle Race Tuner (SERT), you will find more information than you want. The answer to your question about the program is Yes and No. You can find it on line but you will not be able to use it without the SERT module. (see above on the SERT information).
Its going to cost $$ you some to get this fixed whether you do it yourself (buy the SERT) or take it to a HD dealer and pay them for a dyno tune. (Suggest you research the HD dealer or Indi before you lay out the $$) The dealers will have “Caned” programs or will be able to dyno tune the bike (it they have a dyno to do it with) If you have the $$ get the Dyno tune.
The HD SE catalog will have some dyno charts for the 103 Kits showing what you should be getting. With the True Duels you will get about 8 to 10% less low end TQ than shown. Should not be a problem with the 103.

 

I keep hearing everyone talk about checking the Map and/or getting a new tune done right away when things like this come up. You need to make sure that the little things are good before you spring the big bucks for a tune, or you will have to shell out $200-1000 and still have the same problem.

When I had my RG built (would have done it myself, but I was on Medical Hold with the Army), the dealer dyno tuned it and it still ran very poorly off idle. Coming from a stop sign or light, you really had to get on it to be able to get moving without it stalling out. I took it back to them willing to pay more money for more dyno time, and the tech rode it and said it was just fine. After they didn't touch it for 2 weeks past my appointment, I got ticked and took it to a Indy that is really good with the Dyno. Before I could drop it off, he had me check a for a few things (intake and exhaust leaks). I hadn't even hit the highway before he called me to tell me that my plugs were gapped WAY too wide, and my wires had resistance out of tolerance. He regapped the plugs, replaced the plug wires, and dynoed it and got it running like a champ and getting pretty good gas mileage.

Fast forward to when I put my FatCat and SE-255's on my Limited. I went for a ride with my wife for lunch 200 miles from home and it would stumble like it was going to die. I checked the wires and they were bad (probably from how I handle them) and my plugs were gapped to the wide end of the spec. I put new plug wires on and set my gap to .035 and now you can take off with your throttle hand on your head verses having to run it up over 2K RPMs.

Moral of this story is, sometimes the simplest things get overlooked and cause the biggest headache. As best as I can tell, the OP just got this bike, so I am sure that he hasn't been willing to tear into it yet. Rather than having him spend his money that I am sure he worked hard for, we should give him some small stuff that is often overlooked to try first.

 

Ok, I am home now. First thing I am going to do is pull the plugs and check the gaps. Is .035 the correct gap for my bike with the 103? how would I check the cables?

Second, I found my Tuner. I have two cables and a black plastic box with serial ports on both ends that has the screamin eagle log and EFI Race Tuner Kit printed on the side. Problem is also that I do not have a laptop that has this serial port on it. I also do no have the software disc.

 

The book says that your plugs should be gapped at .038-.042. Both of my bikes have 103's and the one has higher compression. .035 seems to work pretty nicely on these plugs, but I wouldn't go more than .038.

For checking your wires....I don't have the book here at work to be able to tell you. You can use a Multimeter to get a rough estimate of their health. Set it to measure Ohms and you should have VERY VERY little resistance through the wires. I have a set of known good wires that I keep at the house just for checking this. Plug wires are fairly inexpensive ~$20 for a set of the SE Fat Wires.

For the Tuner.....I am not 100% sure which tuner you actually have, so if you can either find an item number out of a catalog on-line or post a picture that would give more insight to what you have. I can't remember what the box says for the SE Pro Super Tuners (SEPST) that I use. The cable kit for the SEPST has 2 serial cables, but I still had to supply my own USB cable. Before you can just plug it into your computer, you will also need the CD that has the program and drivers for the device. I would recommend before you do ANYTHING with the tuner that you read and read. You can really make a mess of things if you don't have a clue with the tuner (especially if it is a SEPST).

Check the little stuff first, get a service manual as soon as you can, read as much as you can, and get a buddy close or find a dealer/indy that you can trust for stuff out of your league.

 

Checked the plugs. Both were at .042. I dropped them down to .035 and took it for a spin. Runs fine, but I can't say I feel any noticeable improvement from start.

My tuner is part number 32107-01L. From what I am reading, the CD part number I need is 32117-01N which, of course, HD has discontinued. Anyone know of an online resource that I could download this CD from? I checked ebay, no luck there.