Do I need a new clutch?
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 55
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From: Germany
Do I need a new clutch?
Hi,
i ride a Road King Classic (2000) with 75.000 miles on it. So far i never had slipping on my clutch at all. Just noticed that the is a small area/way between disengaged and engaged.
Did the adjustment couple times with no effect. Maybe it's normal but since I ride the same bike for 6 years i can't compare the clutch (disengaged/engaged) freeplay with another bike. (Btw is freeplay the correct word for that?)
If there is not much freeplay, does this mean the frictions are down?
a) What is your recommondation for new frictions (OEM; Alto Red, Barnett Kev.)?
b) Should I also replace the steels or just sand them ?
c) What about the Seat Damper Spring / Damper Spring / Diaphragm Spring, should I replace them to?
d) Or should I ride until it starts to slip?
i ride a Road King Classic (2000) with 75.000 miles on it. So far i never had slipping on my clutch at all. Just noticed that the is a small area/way between disengaged and engaged.
Did the adjustment couple times with no effect. Maybe it's normal but since I ride the same bike for 6 years i can't compare the clutch (disengaged/engaged) freeplay with another bike. (Btw is freeplay the correct word for that?)
If there is not much freeplay, does this mean the frictions are down?
a) What is your recommondation for new frictions (OEM; Alto Red, Barnett Kev.)?
b) Should I also replace the steels or just sand them ?
c) What about the Seat Damper Spring / Damper Spring / Diaphragm Spring, should I replace them to?
d) Or should I ride until it starts to slip?
Sometimes we tend to fix something that ain't broke, by just tinkering around with it. The newer bikes are somewhat mechanically boring if we don't thrash them, meaning they don't break down like the old shovels and pans.
If the clutch is adjusted properly by the book, and it isn't slipping, ride it.
If the clutch is adjusted properly by the book, and it isn't slipping, ride it.
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 525
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From: Stoughton,MA
Sometimes we tend to fix something that ain't broke, by just tinkering around with it. The newer bikes are somewhat mechanically boring if we don't thrash them, meaning they don't break down like the old shovels and pans.
If the clutch is adjusted properly by the book, and it isn't slipping, ride it.
If the clutch is adjusted properly by the book, and it isn't slipping, ride it.
Back in 98 I bought a 97 Electra Glide from Las Vegas HD. When my wife dropped me off to pick it up the first thing I did was load my tool roll and extra qt of oil into one of the saddlebags.
Salesman looked at me like I had 3 heads. He said "what's that for ?" I replied "never ride without it". Seemed he was right. It sat in the saddlebag and never got openned as long as I owned the bike.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,241
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From: Daytona, Fla.
The answer is pretty much in your post. Ride it till it slips. You have 75,000 on the original clutch, why would you install aftermarket parts? When it slips replace the friction plates with new stock ones & ride another 75,000+............
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 3
From: NYC
just to throw something out there....picking up on the word slippage...make use you are using either motorcycle or diesel engine oil in your primary if you not using a specific primary type oil....don't put auto oil in there..friction modifiers and energy conservation additives will cause slippage.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,590
Likes: 444
From: Ohio
Just make sure you are doing the adjustment correctly, at the primary first then the cable. A manual helps.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Germany
Thanks for your replies! I think I'll hang on till it slips.
Did the adjustment not by the book. I think "The easy clutch Adjustment Method" by Glyder is the best way to do it.
http://www.hdtalking.com/transmissio...nt_method.html
Just to get it right and understand what physically happens: If the frictions are worn, would this cause a smaler freeplay (in between engaged and disengaged) or is there an other possible cause of loosing "freeplay" ? In other words, if the organic Material on Frictions is gone, the Plates are thiner, so the way the plates can be moved is shorter, meaning cause of that there is less freeplay?
RIGHT?/WRONG?/BULLSHT?
Sorry for that horrible description but explainig that in a foreign language aint easy if you a) beeing a Rookie and b) dont know the technical terms.
Did the adjustment not by the book. I think "The easy clutch Adjustment Method" by Glyder is the best way to do it.
http://www.hdtalking.com/transmissio...nt_method.html
Just to get it right and understand what physically happens: If the frictions are worn, would this cause a smaler freeplay (in between engaged and disengaged) or is there an other possible cause of loosing "freeplay" ? In other words, if the organic Material on Frictions is gone, the Plates are thiner, so the way the plates can be moved is shorter, meaning cause of that there is less freeplay?
RIGHT?/WRONG?/BULLSHT?
Sorry for that horrible description but explainig that in a foreign language aint easy if you a) beeing a Rookie and b) dont know the technical terms.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,241
Likes: 7
From: Daytona, Fla.
Thanks for your replies! I think I'll hang on till it slips.
Did the adjustment not by the book. I think "The easy clutch Adjustment Method" by Glyder is the best way to do it.
http://www.hdtalking.com/transmissio...nt_method.html
Just to get it right and understand what physically happens: If the frictions are worn, would this cause a smaler freeplay (in between engaged and disengaged) or is there an other possible cause of loosing "freeplay" ? In other words, if the organic Material on Frictions is gone, the Plates are thiner, so the way the plates can be moved is shorter, meaning cause of that there is less freeplay?
RIGHT?/WRONG?/BULLSHT?
Sorry for that horrible description but explainig that in a foreign language aint easy if you a) beeing a Rookie and b) dont know the technical terms.
Did the adjustment not by the book. I think "The easy clutch Adjustment Method" by Glyder is the best way to do it.
http://www.hdtalking.com/transmissio...nt_method.html
Just to get it right and understand what physically happens: If the frictions are worn, would this cause a smaler freeplay (in between engaged and disengaged) or is there an other possible cause of loosing "freeplay" ? In other words, if the organic Material on Frictions is gone, the Plates are thiner, so the way the plates can be moved is shorter, meaning cause of that there is less freeplay?
RIGHT?/WRONG?/BULLSHT?
Sorry for that horrible description but explainig that in a foreign language aint easy if you a) beeing a Rookie and b) dont know the technical terms.
As you use material off the plates you will create *more* room in the basket making engagement more difficult & resulting in slippage.
The total distance you can move the clutch pack is determined by the deflection available from the ball-&-ramp mechanism. Adjusting the clutch sets free play in the clutch push rod. Once that is accomplished, adjusting the clutch cable determines the point at which the clutch disengages/engages relative to the lever & the grip.