Grinding primary for SE compensator install
I changed my compensator earlier this year. I pulled my inner primary, it's not that much more work. To get mine off, I had to remove my rear exhaust, but that's only because I have the Rinehart TDs, and the rear header is too close to the primary to get it apart without pulling the header off the bike. You've also got to pull the starter, and get the shift linkage and footboard clear.
The rotor is replaced with one from the kit. The instructions with the kit state "Remove the alternator rotor per service manual instructions."
The rotor is replaced with one from the kit. The instructions with the kit state "Remove the alternator rotor per service manual instructions."
Last edited by Mike; Jul 23, 2011 at 08:34 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 872
Likes: 20
From: Niagara Falls Canada
here are pics
i did mine over winter. used die grinder and carbide burr from 6-9 oclock around base. you dont have to grind the outer face edge where primary bolts on. the magneto pulls off before you get it to the face point. used a flapper sanding wheel to smooth out the carbide cutting. packed around magneto with tape and rags to keep metal out. once I got the mag off i spayed the whole area down with a can of electrical cleaner.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 415
From: Southern Maryland
U tube video
I recently saw a UTube video on removing the compensator. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djEwdOzfBI0
It's a series of videos, so takes more than one to complete the job
and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8yF423yz5I&NR=1
It's a series of videos, so takes more than one to complete the job
and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8yF423yz5I&NR=1
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, Texas
Did it a couple of weeks ago and it was easy - used a tapered metal grinding "bit" for my dremel and it only took me a few minutes to get enough material off to pull the rotor. As someone else said, I also had to grind from the 9 to 6 o'clock position. Hardest part was covering everything so I didn't get metal particles all over. Oh, and keeping the towels away from the dremel bit...
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 112
Likes: 1
seals
I did se compensator on my flhx 07 about a month ago. My street glide has 39k on it. I was going to do the grinding to save time and $ but It just bugged me on grinding so I pulled the primary. There are five bolts and the two on the starter that hold it on. The interprimary seal behind the clutch was leaking, not alot but messy or sweting. So I replaced the seal and o rilng on the starter. Bearing was ok but I'd do it too if had it over. There is another seal that's behind the primary where the shifter goes into the trans. change it too. This seal is rubber on mine and can dig out with a little pick, about 3/4" round. I have platform lift so it made it fun to do. I just did it on a day off and took my time. Turned out good, starts smoother, nice. Not as much primary noise. Watch stacking the new se comp. plates right. Like your fingers on a mirror. I changed the fluid at 100 and then at 500. There will be some new metal break-in on the new comp. Get a service manual for torques. It's one off thoses jobs that once you do one the next one will be 1/3 of the time.
Supporter
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 341
Likes: 22
From: Island on the Pacific.
My bike starts extremely hard when hot on a very hot day, it clangs and bumps and I think it will not start. Otherwise it is fine. is this an indication of the compensator going?
2008 110
2008 110
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