Clutch Adjustment Question
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Jayhawk Country
Clutch Adjustment Question
I bought the service manual today to do the 1k mile service on my 11 Limited. Looking at the clutch adjustment there is one thing I don't understand. How are you suppose to tighten the jam nut while holding the adjuster screw? I assume the adjuster screw is allen head and you need to get a socket on the jam nut. Not sure how you can get a socket on the jam nut while holding the adjuster screw with an allen wrench. Please advise.
Thanks
Thanks
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Glendale AZ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zl92w...eature=related
I had the same questions and this helped me a lot. Using the two together it's a snap.
I had the same questions and this helped me a lot. Using the two together it's a snap.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,312
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From: Missouri
Offset box wrench and Allen wrench. As far as torque value, I just bump the box end wrench a couple times with my fist to make sure it's tight, never a problem and adjusted many times. Other wise your gonna need a crows foot to go on your torque wrench.
Last edited by Jeff W; Jul 28, 2011 at 06:10 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
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That is a very good question. In the video he uses a socket to loosen the locknut. After he sets the allen screw to 1/2 turn out, he then proceeds to use an open end 11/16" wrench to tighten the locknut (not the socket he used to loosen it up). Kind of confusing, especially to a young wrench.
I will suggest a different approach, because if you do have a large open end 11/16" wrench it is probably not to make a good fit on the locknut, unless you bend it with a torch first. My suggestion would be that if you use an 11/16" socket to loosen the locknut in the first place to place the socket into your vise and grind a flat spot on opposing sides of the socket in order to use a crescent wrench to turn it. By doing so it will allow you to put the socket over the locknut while at the same time it will allow you to put the allen wrench into the center of the socket. You would then hold the allen wrench in one hand and put your crescent on the socket using the spots you have just ground out as the contact points for the jaws of the crescent.
Don't tighten up the locknut with all your strength because it will strip out. Snug it up and then give it a little love tap with your hand. I usually put the transmission into gear and then have my trained monkey place his foot on the rear brake in order to keep everything from turning. Then I tighten up the locknut a little bit. I have never had one come loose.
I will suggest a different approach, because if you do have a large open end 11/16" wrench it is probably not to make a good fit on the locknut, unless you bend it with a torch first. My suggestion would be that if you use an 11/16" socket to loosen the locknut in the first place to place the socket into your vise and grind a flat spot on opposing sides of the socket in order to use a crescent wrench to turn it. By doing so it will allow you to put the socket over the locknut while at the same time it will allow you to put the allen wrench into the center of the socket. You would then hold the allen wrench in one hand and put your crescent on the socket using the spots you have just ground out as the contact points for the jaws of the crescent.
Don't tighten up the locknut with all your strength because it will strip out. Snug it up and then give it a little love tap with your hand. I usually put the transmission into gear and then have my trained monkey place his foot on the rear brake in order to keep everything from turning. Then I tighten up the locknut a little bit. I have never had one come loose.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: NJ
I do not believe at 1000 miles you should be going into the clutch pack in the primary. Just adjust the free play in your cable. Stay out the pack till 5 k.
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Riverside, Ca.
If you have the O ring you don't need to replace it unless you damage it. Just clean the oil out of the groove before re-installing it.
Secondly if the guy ate a few less donuts he wouldn't be huffing and puffing tightening an 11/16 nut. Just my observations.
Secondly if the guy ate a few less donuts he wouldn't be huffing and puffing tightening an 11/16 nut. Just my observations.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Oxford, Nc
The friction discs break in too, and I would suggest that the greatest wear needing adjustment would occur when the discs run from brand new to 1,000 miles.
To the OP, like many procedures that become 'automatic' after awhile. I "slap" the nut loose, ( open palm against the wrench, not hard just quick.)
Once loosened and the adjustment done, turn locknut down to bottom by hand and "slap" it tight. The adjuster barely moves.
I must be doin' something right here. The bike just turned 92,000 miles last week on the original clutch plates...
BTW, mine runs the O Ring gasket on the primary, and it's original too...no leaks.
Last edited by Stiggy; Jul 28, 2011 at 07:55 PM. Reason: Adding
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Ultimate HDF Member
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From: Jayhawk Country
You would be wrong, remember, I said I just bought the service manual. Clutch adjustment is done at every maintenance starting at 1K miles