Did this without any problems
Al

"When installing the sprocket retainer (10), make sure that the
thrust washer (9) does not fall off the retainer or that it does
not get pinched between the retainer and shaft extension.
A small amount of white lithium grease will help hold the thrust
washer to the sprocket retainer.
5. Install the thrust washer (9) and sprocket retainer (10).
NOTES
When installing the screw (11), make sure the disc springs are
properly aligned and that the spring nearest the rotor assembly
has not slipped between the extension and rotor hub.
Make sure the thrust washer has not slipped between the
sprocket and sprocket retainer.
6. Install the new screw (11) by hand, and snug against the
sprocket retainer. Using a 1-3/4 inch box-end wrench to
hold the crankshaft, tighten the screw to 100 ft-lbs (135.7
Nm).
7. Loosen the screw by one full turn (360 degrees), then
tighten to 140 ft-lbs (190.0 Nm).
8. Rotate the compensating sprocket (4) to make sure there
is a light pressure on the sprocket from the springs. No
clearance should be felt. A slight rotation should be possible
by hand with the transmission in neutral"

 

Yep that could be an issue and were the threads clean and dry?

 

Shouldn't come loose if done properly: Dry threads, red Loctite, and proper torque.

 

So I guess the answer to my question is no and the answer to the problem is do the work yourself, unnoticed and unappreciated, thats what I tell my wife, must be true.

 

Found of today that the bolt didn't have hardly any loctite on it, and they think that is why it came loose. Also, it didn't sit hardly any time. We dropped it off at noon, rode it out about 3pm and rode several hundred miles.....

So, this time around hopefully it will be ok!

 

I see youre in Tulsa. Which dealership did the install? Myers did mine under warranty after I demanded it gets done before warranty expired. They acted like they had never heard of any compensator problems. Then after they finally agreed to do it, they acte like they have problems with compensators all the time and told me "the OE's are junk". Other friends have had theirs replaced at 66 under warranty with no hassle what so ever.

 

Did you just bring it in and ask that the stocker be replaced with the SE Compensator, or were you having problems already with the stock unit?

 

I was only having the "bang" sometimes on hot startups but I wanted it taken care of under warranty. I started it about 3 times for the service writer and he heard the loud bang and I finally got them to fix it after threatening to get pissed. I paid the difference in the pn of the OE and the SE.

 

How would one know if the thrust washer was out of place torque'n it to 140fp, I applied extra loctite to the bolt and used the bar betwen the sprockets to torque and I have approx 4k and so far no issues...

 

The plastic washer is there to allow the compensator to move. It does not affect the torque applied while installing the comp.

This is fairly critical. Loctite is liquid, and will find its way out of the bolt hole unless it has properly cured.

Using the proper method to torque is critical. If you use the locking bar, you're actually torquing against the spring tension of the compensator. Ask me how I know...

Had to make a trip to the store to buy a 1-3/4" wrench. Works MUCH better.

I've installed my buddy's comp three times now (first time, then to swap drive sprockets twice) on his 124" bike. The bolt has NEVER shown signs of backing out.

I believe proper torque procedure plus LOTS of Loctite and cure time are the solution.