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take your time and drill out the rivets, if you have an extra pair of hands it will help to hold the lid while you are drilling the rivets out so it doesn't get dropped. Its time consuming but well worth it, can't beleive the MOCO puts that cheap looking **** on a CVO bike!!
Last edited by Bdhouse61; Feb 26, 2012 at 01:06 PM.
I installed everything except the latch catches, looks fine for now. You can barely see the chrome catch once latched anyways, I'll have the dealer install the catch when it goes in for the brake lite recall.
I see this thread is a bit dated but I'll respond anyhow. I came across this thread while trying to solve this same problem this weekend.
I went to our local Lowe's store and bought a pack of stainless steel #4 screws and associated #4 nuts.
This is a perfect solution for the lid-portion of replacement tourpak latches to ensure a tight fit when you don't have a rivet tool or don't want to use rivets in the first place.
Cheers.
I tried this "hardware" solution a couple of years ago when I repainted the bike, including the Ultra Tour Pak. The outside of the latch looked fine with the small screws sitting down in the latch recess.
The problem was the small screws on the interior side of the lid hit the top edge of the tour pak bottom creating some minor paint damage. I quickly removed the hardware and used the OEM rivets. Had a tech friend at the local dealership use the dealership's specialty rivet tool to install them.
I'm not saying that the suggested "hardware" solution won't work or that others wouldn't be okay with the nuts hitting the top edge of the tour pak bottom if that turns out to be the case for them.
I tried this "hardware" solution a couple of years ago when I repainted the bike, including the Ultra Tour Pak. The outside of the latch looked fine with the small screws sitting down in the latch recess.
The problem was the small screws on the interior side of the lid hit the top edge of the tour pak bottom creating some minor paint damage. I quickly removed the hardware and used the OEM rivets. Had a tech friend at the local dealership use the dealership's specialty rivet tool to install them.
I'm not saying that the suggested "hardware" solution won't work or that others wouldn't be okay with the nuts hitting the top edge of the tour pak bottom if that turns out to be the case for them.
Carl
I did have that concern, and was quite surprised to find out the #4 nut on the inside of the lid didn't bang into bottom lip of the pak. (I had maybe only one thread-worth of the #4 screw protruding past the nut) I guess I should have mentioned I also replaced the lid seal, and changed the hinges to the new model hinges. Maybe that gave me a different clearance altogether. That, and 'my application' was a tourpak from 2005 (fiberglass) and not the newer plastic version.
Stop at a auto body shop and show them what ya got. This rivit tool sounds like what they use for attaching power window motors to the inside of a door.
The rivet tool is unlike anything you will find in the general automotive service garage. The "rivets" are more like short pieces of tubing that need to be flared on one end. When I did mine I stopped by the local HD shop and asked if I could rent the tool that HD uses. They kind of chuckled ... but when I reminded them that I was a regular customer and bought all my parts there they offered to do it for me .... "Just grab your parts and bring them by and we'll do it for you." .... A Twelve Pack later everyone was happy!
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