heavy and over filled primary oil has been known to cause clutch disengagement issues......basically...the suction from the fluid prevents the immediate disengagement of the plates.

 

A little off idle rpm allows for smoother transitions between gears, its an inj. type issue and pobably normal.

 

When you give it throttle, do the rpms jump before the transmission kicks in?

 

Does the throttle grip "snap" back when you release, or does it seem sluggish? I had to replace my throttle cable and it took 3-4 adjustments over a week or so to get it just right, it would seem ok then after a day or so it would seem to be "hanging" open, not sure of the technical jargon here. After adjusting it a few times it snaps right back every time and has been good for several weeks.

 

Nope. Smooth shifting into gear...just not getting out of gear...I'm going to try to take a look at some suggestions from Keith at FM...Checking the TPS is a good possibility but he also thinks it's just running WAY too lean...or the tubes inside the gas tank has a hole in one of them? Not sure but will be investigating soon...I'll keep you guys up to date!

Mike

 

The engine RPM is not dependent on the clutch. If your RPM is hanging you are almost certainly out of adjustment on the throttle cables, they are gummed up, or you simply aren't allowing the throttle to return. If you have them adjusted too tight, they will return to the stop slowly. Back off the adjuster and prove the cables are not frayed or gummed up. Then adjust the pull cable until there is a little free play, (1/16"-1/8" not sure, don't have SM in front of me.) then adjust the return cable slack out. Snap the throttle open and closed while adjusting the return cable. When you don't get that snap shut sound anymore, stop and put just a little slack back in the return cable. Turn handlebars left and right and check throttle return in those positions as well. A little more slck in the return cable may be required. The throttle position sensor could misread and inject more fuel, if injected, but the throttle plate would still be closed and not allow any air in. It would be like running a hot engine on choke.

 

Mine idles high with clutch pulled in until I come to a complete stop. I assume it's to keep the rpm's up for shifting purposes.

 

+1. I adjusted the throttle cable per the SM and the throttle grip "snaps back" also.
I've also noticed other bikes I'm following when they go to slow down they can "coast & slow", where I have to downshift or brake to get the same slowdown.

 

That is exactly what mine does. I'm the only one that has to use brakes to slow down for curves, even when running a lower gear

 

Dirty IAC. Clean it. It will cause your idle to hang.