I currently have a 2010 Street Glide and I am looking to get more light out of it. I find there is not enough light while driving at night. Any suggestion/ recommendations would be appriciated. Is it better to upgrade the bulb in the headlight or to get seperate diving lights? Hope to get some good feedback.

Happy Riding

 

Lights

See the above hd link, marginally better than stock if you can get them adjusted. Only other options are aux. lighting beside the headlamp or off the engine guards. And if you got tons of cash LED lights.

 

Having an Ultra, and previoiusly having a Suzi Boulevard (with only one light). I can tell you the driving lights make a world of difference. You can shut off the spots (driving lights) on the Ultra, and there certainly is not enough light for my likings.

I put a light bar on my suzuki after only a few nights on the road. It made a world of difference. If you are not ready to spend the money on a lightbar, i would certainly reccomend at least putting a silverstar bulb in. And as much as they (sylvania) will say that a silverstar does no lose power, replace it every year, as I have found they still lose power.

 

I just went through this myself. Lots of good options (HID/LED/Aux, etc.) Personally I was looking for an inexpensive way to get more output from just the SG headlight. I may add aux lights and/or LED later, but both options are pricey.

I went with the setup recommended by member iclick - it's a hella e-code lamp and 100/80 watt bulb. Super bright. MUCH improved lighting. Around $70 all-in - iclick posted a link to a good vendor in this thread: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...headlamps.html

 

If you are ok with the look of the spot lights, they can be aimed slightly wide for elk spotting on the side of the road, 2 X 55 watts can be pretty effective at that.

adding lumens to the headlamp can be good, but it is still 1 beam pointed pretty much straight ahead.

many of the "off road" 100 watt + bulbs are not very high quality in terms of service life, color temperature of accuracy of light ( the filament most often needs to be in exactly the right position to work with the reflector)

Do not confuse watts ( an electrical rating related to power consumption) with Lumens ( light produced)

silverstars do work well, they now have a 'graph" on the box which shows that certain versions may produce more usuable light, but have a shorter life- spare bulb is easy to pack...and in many States it is legal to run high beam in the day, which equalizes wear ( maybe)

adding a lot of watts may require upgrading factory wiring or using relay packs--- if you go with a H-D or similar set up, then you will be ok.

try spots if you are ok with the look---- one thing for a seasoned H-D rider, there is little doubt that it's a H-D if you see 3 lights coming at you. Even my '53 has 3 lights ( 6 volt)

The stock lighting package on my 09 with spots, far exceeds the lighting I've had on other models bikes- even with upgrades, hella reflector, relay packs etc.

Mike

 

Will the 100/80 overload the wiring which was designed for half that with the stock lamp being a 60/55 ?

 

There are quite a few threads on this subject here, including this one. Here is an excellent combo for only about $40, which is much better than stock:

Hella E-code headlight
Hella 80/100W bulbs

I found several friends who were interested in the bulbs, which work with stock headlights, and split the shipping. Having a spare or two is a good idea, as the bulbs don't last forever. OTOH I've been using these bulbs for 13 years and they've been lasting for years between replacements.

 

The low-beam wire is loaded with both the 55w portion of the headlight bulb plus the auxiliary lights. I'm not sure how many amps the auxiliaries pull nowadays, but it's more than the ~6A you would be using with the high-output bulbs alone. The high-beam is the same size wire, so that is definitely good for 100W. I ran these on my old RK and had no problems except when running high-output (35W x 2) auxiliaries with them, in which case the 15A breakers would trip, but re-wiring with a relay fixed that. No wiring or connector problems on that bike with that setup for either low- or high-beams. On my '07 I've been running the 80/100W bulbs since purchased with no trouble, but I have no auxiliaries. I also use a modulator which reduces total voltage by 40% on high-beams when active, so heat and amperage are down in daylight.

A friend with a '98 WG and another with a BMW GS had trouble with connectors melting over time, but upgrading to a high-temp connector fixed that problem. You can find these at Auto Zone, etc. for a few $.

 

Question, the modulator reduces voltage?

and if it does, reduced voltage is hard on halogen lamps--- they don't take well to dimming.

and the modulator is installed near the load- (Lamp) so the current draw on the system between the fuse and the modulator would be the same, no?
I'd also not been big on the idea of voltage swings on the charging system- thinking that a capacitor may be needed the isolate the battery from that.

The modulator/halogen issue, has dissuaded me--- and I'd almost thought that a physical 'shutter' might be effective- thought I might steal the neighbor girl's pinwheel and tape it over the lamp

Please offer details on your modulator

Thanks, Mike

 

I put in the Kuryakyn LED headlight and passing lamps on my 2010 Ultra Classic. It really lights up the night now.