I have a 2004 ultra classic with 22,000 miles on it. with my engine at idle and applying the brakes my volt gauge drops to 12.5 to 13 volts as soon as I release the brakes or accelerate it goes back to 14 volts. Does this sound like a voltage regulator problem? Also when I first start the engine it takes a little time or acceleration for the volt gauge to reach 14 volts.

 

Sounds like my bike. They don't typically generate enough juice at idle to run the system. If it gets to 13.5 volts at 2000 rpm and up, I think you're fine.

 

Sounds normal to me. I wouldn't worry unless it drops much lower at idle or does not go up to around 14 when running 2,000 RPM or more.

 

Buzz, FYI the charging system generates 16 to 20 volts AC per 1000 rpm, that AC is converted to DC by the voltage regulator which sits between the frame rails in front of and below the oil filter.
When converting to DC there is voltage loss, and the regulator sheds any excess voltage---power provided to the battery should be less than 14.8.
Most in dash voltmeters read about 1 volt low. If you see way wacky readings like +/- 5 volts from normal, then worry

 

I think your fine. Thats how both my bikes have acted. I had the regulator go out on my '06 and voltage dropped to 10 or so and the battery light and check engine light came on with codes registered. Your bike sounds like its fine.

 

Thanks for the info guys, I wont worry while riding this weekend

 

So, I think I have a similar problem. I was left stranded on the side of the road when my charging system was less than 8 volts and my bike couldn't take it. I replaced the battery on the side of the road and went home. When I started the bike the needle jumped to 12 vdc but went down to 10.5 and on the way home it was around 10.5 volts. I finally had some time to look into it today and this is what I found: ohm between stator leeds .4 ohm, when I ohm to ground open line, this leads to a good stator. Performed the regulator bleed test and it passed. Good ground from stud to battery and is tight. When running no matter what rpm my battery doesn't exceed 12ish volts and my stator is only putting out 10ish vac @ 2500 rpm. The book says that if this is the case then the stator and rotor "may" be bad. I was looking for more of a definite answer. I only have a 2 wire stator and believe I checked everything. Is there anything that I missed or should I just go ahead and replace the whole shebang? If that is the case I was considering the cycle electric 3 phase 50 amp charge kit. Kit number is 2112-0407 from drag. Has anyone had any experiance with this or heard anything? Just looking for some info and hopefully I can get this thing back on the road. Also, is there anything I should change while I have it opened up for this repair? I am riding a 1999 FLHTCUI , Ultra classic fuel injected.
Thanks in advance,
George

 

Mouse,

if you go over to the electrical tech board, I think there is a sticky for testing the charging system--- or search.

anyway, the numbers given above 16 to 20 VAC PER 1000 rpm tested AT the stator- just unplug it a put your probes in, then get a reading and rev it up. 3000 rpm you should see 45 to 60 VAC.

I myself would not trust aftermarket electrical parts

and to do this YOU NEED the manual ( which has all the checks in it)

and NEVER use air impact tools on the compensator---it can knock the magnets off the rotor, damaging the stator---pricey!

mike

 

Mouse, After losing stators at 19,000, 32,000 and yet again at 52,000 miles, I tried the Compu Fire 5 amp 3 Phase system. ( Drag about $400.) That was 2 years ago and 40,000 miles and I'm still a happy camper.

You cannot overwork the system with lights , heated gear etc.

Now that Cycle Electric has a kit, ( didn't know that until now,) I'd definitely go for it!

The technology is state of the art, ( Harley is ancient,) and Cycle Electric quality vastly exceeds Harley quality.

Excellent folks there too. You won't be disappointed.

 

I do have the book and performed all the checks, It seems the only way to be certain is to open it up. I will probably go with the cycle electric charge kit and was thinking perhaps I should change the clutch packs and primary chain tensioner while in there. Any other input before I under take the task would be appreciated.
Thanks,
George