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flhtcui charging problem

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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 10:40 AM
  #11  
DTTJGlide's Avatar
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Just take the inspection cover off & you'll be able to tell, it will have a bad roasted electrical smell, stinks. Unless you've got over 100K or you have a previous problem you should be OK with the clutch & tensioner. If anything check your drive belt & pulleys, to replace those you have to have inner primary off just as you do for the stator replacement.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2023 | 03:35 PM
  #12  
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Default Mouse in my cup flhtcui

I also ride an flhtcui, a 97 tho..I just replaced my stator because my mag came apart and I could not find the pieces of magnet so I took everything apart and cleaned it.. glad I did because when I disassembled the clutch pak to middle discs were torn up from the spring plate in the middle of the clutch pak..they say when that rxplodes from a bad spring plate that it tears up the clutch basket and more..
The spring plate helps us heavy bike riders to take off smoothly.. some replace with an extra clutch plate kit.. but I talked to a few people who had used the extra clutch plate kit and their clutch got stiffer and take off was hard to take of smoothly at a low rpm take off..
I replaced the clutches and the spring plate..
Originally Posted by Mouse in my cup
So, I think I have a similar problem. I was left stranded on the side of the road when my charging system was less than 8 volts and my bike couldn't take it. I replaced the battery on the side of the road and went home. When I started the bike the needle jumped to 12 vdc but went down to 10.5 and on the way home it was around 10.5 volts. I finally had some time to look into it today and this is what I found: ohm between stator leeds .4 ohm, when I ohm to ground open line, this leads to a good stator. Performed the regulator bleed test and it passed. Good ground from stud to battery and is tight. When running no matter what rpm my battery doesn't exceed 12ish volts and my stator is only putting out 10ish vac @ 2500 rpm. The book says that if this is the case then the stator and rotor "may" be bad. I was looking for more of a definite answer. I only have a 2 wire stator and believe I checked everything. Is there anything that I missed or should I just go ahead and replace the whole shebang? If that is the case I was considering the cycle electric 3 phase 50 amp charge kit. Kit number is 2112-0407 from drag. Has anyone had any experiance with this or heard anything? Just looking for some info and hopefully I can get this thing back on the road. Also, is there anything I should change while I have it opened up for this repair? I am riding a 1999 FLHTCUI , Ultra classic fuel injected.
Thanks in advance,
George
 
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Old Sep 5, 2023 | 04:17 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by ThatOneGuy1968
I also ride an flhtcui, a 97 tho..I just replaced my stator because my mag came apart and I could not find the pieces of magnet so I took everything apart and cleaned it.. glad I did because when I disassembled the clutch pak to middle discs were torn up from the spring plate in the middle of the clutch pak..they say when that rxplodes from a bad spring plate that it tears up the clutch basket and more..
The spring plate helps us heavy bike riders to take off smoothly.. some replace with an extra clutch plate kit.. but I talked to a few people who had used the extra clutch plate kit and their clutch got stiffer and take off was hard to take of smoothly at a low rpm take off..
I replaced the clutches and the spring plate..
Keep in mind that this is a 12 year old post, and the person you responded to hasnt been seen on the site for four years.

Welcome to HDForums, from MIchigan!
 
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Old Jun 20, 2024 | 07:50 PM
  #14  
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Default Regulator/Rectifier bleed test tolerance....?

I'm also running (mostly fixing) a FLHTCUI 97.
For an amatuer putz this charging system's been really testing my patience.
Stator is good, not grounded, and < .5ohm accross the leads, and gives adequate AC voltage.
Manual says bleed test the regulator with a bulb from a ground to both connector leads and replace if it lights.
......Well, the TEST BULB DOESN'T LIGHT, but my MULTIMETER shows about 1 Volt coming from one of the leads at the connector.
Since I'd rather find just WTF other problems I may have BEFORE replacing my 3rd regulator, I'm wondering if there is a tolerance of voltage bleed that it can read when I check from ground to the Regulator connector leads (like less than enough to light the bulb).
Riddle me that you V-Twin Wizards....

PS: I've heard the same praises from a TTCycle about the Cycle Electric's 3 phase system. Says the Stator/Regulator Connectors (as much as we try to protect them) tend to overhead & melt often from all the accessories or long rides with the 45amp system. 3 Phase supposedly disperses the heat somehow??


Originally Posted by ThatOneGuy1968
I also ride an flhtcui, a 97 tho..I just replaced my stator because my mag came apart and I could not find the pieces of magnet so I took everything apart and cleaned it.. glad I did because when I disassembled the clutch pak to middle discs were torn up from the spring plate in the middle of the clutch pak..they say when that rxplodes from a bad spring plate that it tears up the clutch basket and more..
The spring plate helps us heavy bike riders to take off smoothly.. some replace with an extra clutch plate kit.. but I talked to a few people who had used the extra clutch plate kit and their clutch got stiffer and take off was hard to take of smoothly at a low rpm take off..
I replaced the clutches and the spring plate..
 
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Old Jun 20, 2024 | 08:46 PM
  #15  
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Hey Mr Wizard...
Well, you've been here 4 years and this is your first post.........
And oldy but goodie too.......
 
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