2007 Frame Stabilizer
04 Electra Glide and I have the Glide Pro system and couldn't be happier! If you go with one of the braces and tend to ride it hard on occasion look into either replacing or upgrading the swingarm bushings, in some cases the stock rubber bushings begin to break down and get soft, causing unwanted flex at the swingarm axle when you are really working the curves.
If you're so confident it's the "best", perhaps you can produce some evidence to support the claim. Just being first doesn't necessarily cut it.
Hey Guys,
I have a '07 FLT that has the known "Harley Davidson Death Wobble." Lately it seems that is has been getting worse or maybe I am just notcing it more.
I have seen a TON of stabilizer kits on the market and even listed here.
Has anyone use one of these?
What was the outcome?
Was it worth the money?
I B Da Monk
I have a '07 FLT that has the known "Harley Davidson Death Wobble." Lately it seems that is has been getting worse or maybe I am just notcing it more.
I have seen a TON of stabilizer kits on the market and even listed here.
Has anyone use one of these?
What was the outcome?
Was it worth the money?
I B Da Monk
Yes it helped, yes it was worth the money.
Yes I'm useing one, and yes it is worth the price of 139.00
here is a link http://www.throttleupindustries.com/hdforum.html
the outcome is fantastic, you wont be sorry
here is a link http://www.throttleupindustries.com/hdforum.html
the outcome is fantastic, you wont be sorry
Just a note...
It is not the "Harley Davidson Death Wobble".
It is a "Death Wobble". I have an aunt that got it on her Yamaha dirt bike. A friend who was almost killed on a lonely Idaho hiway in the early '80's on a GoldWing. He spent 6 months in the hospital recuperating. Over the years I have had family and friends live through it on variuous models and manufacturers of motorcycles.
It is not a phenomenon owned by Harley Davidson.
Any bike can have it. Cruisers, dirt bikes, or touring. Regardless of manufacturer.
To attribute it to Harley Davidson, or any one manufacturer, is just not right.
Improvements in frame design have reduced it's regularity. And, as a rider, it is a good idea to consider it. If there are improvements for your bike to reduce the chance of having it then you should consider them.
The death wobble exists. There are many factors that contribute to it. It can be initiated by old or poorly maintained equipment, a poor design, or a rock in the road. The gyroscopic aspects of the tires can be upset by many things. The fact that this phenomenon is still being studied means no-one has figured it out completely.
Poorly balanced tires and wheels. Laced wheels that are out of round. Old shocks. Poor air balance in shocks. Old front forks. Unbalanced fluids in the forks. If one has air adjustable forks and the air is unbalanced, this too can contribute. Not enough air in the shocks or forks. Tire pressure. Poorly balanced loads. Load weight too high in the TP or a bad balance between the left and right bags. Even the balance of weight in a fairing. Hit a hole in the pavement and the tire inner belts can be effected. A rock in the road. And/or a combination of any/all of these and others not mentioned.
But, we should not associate it with one particular manufacturer.
It is not the "Harley Davidson Death Wobble".
It is a "Death Wobble". I have an aunt that got it on her Yamaha dirt bike. A friend who was almost killed on a lonely Idaho hiway in the early '80's on a GoldWing. He spent 6 months in the hospital recuperating. Over the years I have had family and friends live through it on variuous models and manufacturers of motorcycles.
It is not a phenomenon owned by Harley Davidson.
Any bike can have it. Cruisers, dirt bikes, or touring. Regardless of manufacturer.
To attribute it to Harley Davidson, or any one manufacturer, is just not right.
Improvements in frame design have reduced it's regularity. And, as a rider, it is a good idea to consider it. If there are improvements for your bike to reduce the chance of having it then you should consider them.
The death wobble exists. There are many factors that contribute to it. It can be initiated by old or poorly maintained equipment, a poor design, or a rock in the road. The gyroscopic aspects of the tires can be upset by many things. The fact that this phenomenon is still being studied means no-one has figured it out completely.
Poorly balanced tires and wheels. Laced wheels that are out of round. Old shocks. Poor air balance in shocks. Old front forks. Unbalanced fluids in the forks. If one has air adjustable forks and the air is unbalanced, this too can contribute. Not enough air in the shocks or forks. Tire pressure. Poorly balanced loads. Load weight too high in the TP or a bad balance between the left and right bags. Even the balance of weight in a fairing. Hit a hole in the pavement and the tire inner belts can be effected. A rock in the road. And/or a combination of any/all of these and others not mentioned.
But, we should not associate it with one particular manufacturer.
Last edited by Matt0987; Aug 28, 2011 at 10:48 PM.
I personally don't like the design used by True-Track and Throttle-Up, where the link to the engine is applied by extending the tranny pan bolts. Although I haven't heard of any problems with this method, it would seem that in time the constant stress imposed by the turnbuckle would weaken the threads in the tranny pan.
Other designs like RideStr8, TRW, and Progressive Touring Link attach flush with the pan and shouldn't impose as much stress. They also tuck up under the bike better and won't cause clearance problems like was the case with True-Track when they were first introduced. I don't know if this has been corrected since that time. They also don't fill and extend the area under the T-bone cross-member, which some of us use to jack the bike up.
When I bought my Ride Str8 four years ago there wasn't much on the market--only that, TT, and the quirky Alloy Art stabilizers. Now there is much more to choose from and the prices are much lower. I paid $440 for my RideStr8 in 2007 and the Progressive Touring Link, which is the same design, retails today for $199. I notice that the RideStr8, TT, and Alloy Art websites no longer work, at least using the same URLs I have bookmarked, so they may no longer be available.
I did this review on the Ride Str8 four years ago and the effects reported should be the same for any of these devices.
Other designs like RideStr8, TRW, and Progressive Touring Link attach flush with the pan and shouldn't impose as much stress. They also tuck up under the bike better and won't cause clearance problems like was the case with True-Track when they were first introduced. I don't know if this has been corrected since that time. They also don't fill and extend the area under the T-bone cross-member, which some of us use to jack the bike up.
When I bought my Ride Str8 four years ago there wasn't much on the market--only that, TT, and the quirky Alloy Art stabilizers. Now there is much more to choose from and the prices are much lower. I paid $440 for my RideStr8 in 2007 and the Progressive Touring Link, which is the same design, retails today for $199. I notice that the RideStr8, TT, and Alloy Art websites no longer work, at least using the same URLs I have bookmarked, so they may no longer be available.
I did this review on the Ride Str8 four years ago and the effects reported should be the same for any of these devices.
Last edited by iclick; Aug 29, 2011 at 01:11 PM.
I personally don't like the design used by True-Track and Throttle-Up, where the link to the engine is applied by extending the tranny pan bolts. Although I haven't heard of any problems with this method, it would seem that in time the constant stress imposed by the turnbuckle would weaken the threads in the tranny pan.
Other designs like RideStr8, TRW, and Progressive Touring Link attach flush with the pan and shouldn't impose as much stress. They also tuck up under the bike better and won't cause clearance problems like was the case with True-Track when they were first introduced. I don't know if this has been corrected since that time. They also don't fill and extend the area under the T-bone cross-member, which some of us use to jack the bike up.
When I bought my Ride Str8 four years ago there wasn't much on the market--only that, TT, and the quirky Alloy Art stabilizers. Now there is much more to choose from and the prices are much lower. I paid $440 for my RideStr8 in 2007 and the Progressive Touring Link, which is the same design, retails today for $199. I notice that the RideStr8, TT, and Alloy Art websites no longer work, at least using the same URLs I have bookmarked, so they may no longer be available.
I did this review on the Ride Str8 four years ago and the effects reported should be the same for any of these devices.
Other designs like RideStr8, TRW, and Progressive Touring Link attach flush with the pan and shouldn't impose as much stress. They also tuck up under the bike better and won't cause clearance problems like was the case with True-Track when they were first introduced. I don't know if this has been corrected since that time. They also don't fill and extend the area under the T-bone cross-member, which some of us use to jack the bike up.
When I bought my Ride Str8 four years ago there wasn't much on the market--only that, TT, and the quirky Alloy Art stabilizers. Now there is much more to choose from and the prices are much lower. I paid $440 for my RideStr8 in 2007 and the Progressive Touring Link, which is the same design, retails today for $199. I notice that the RideStr8, TT, and Alloy Art websites no longer work, at least using the same URLs I have bookmarked, so they may no longer be available.
I did this review on the Ride Str8 four years ago and the effects reported should be the same for any of these devices.
I read your review then went with the Progressive. It should be here by the end of the week.
Thanks






