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leaking cases
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Tourer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 297
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From:
leaking cases
Just got my 07 Street Glide into the dealer
for an oil leak. Turnsout that the cases have to be replaced.
All under warrenty.
Would this be a good time to go 103 with cams.
Also what would the cost be?
Thanks
Shortleg[Dave]
for an oil leak. Turnsout that the cases have to be replaced.
All under warrenty.
Would this be a good time to go 103 with cams.
Also what would the cost be?
Thanks
Shortleg[Dave]
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 868
Likes: 1
From: Trenton,N.J.
Now is the time to do it!! If you have to get new cases why go 103?? Get the new 120 cases, & pay the difference!! If not, get the stock cases & have them(dealership) bore them for the 110,113,then just buy the bigger jugs!! If you keeping your stock crank,while the cases are apart,send it out for welding,plugging & balancing,or just have it welded & plugged!! The motor is already apart do it now!!!!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,548
Likes: 7,164
From: Oxford, Nc
And since they're doing the majority of the cost, pay them extra to install the Timken Lefty bearing that's available in the S/E parts book, ( that was standard on 99-02.)
That should help potential slipping crank problems,
That should help potential slipping crank problems,
Last edited by Stiggy; Sep 2, 2011 at 03:50 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,548
Likes: 7,164
From: Oxford, Nc
The 103" kit is really quite inexpensive as far as parts go too.
Last edited by Stiggy; Sep 2, 2011 at 03:50 AM.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
Likes: 2,606
From: san antonio
If I was in your shoes and had the $$, I would skip over all the Stage whatever builds and pay the difference for the 120R cases and buy the 4.060" cylinders and a set of domed pistons that would allow you to shave the dome and set compression as required for the cams of your choice and build a big, fat, lazy 120" torque monster. Work the stock heads for now, Andrews 54 cams or TMan 555C, remap and have some fun; oh yeah, you will need a clutch; you are looking at a 120TQ/HP motor. Then there is so much more you can do in the future with say a set of mildly worked 110 heads, more cam, larger throttle body/injectors and more pipe but it should tune out OK with what you have now. I would not worry about welding the 4.625" crank. I think the crank, cylinders and pistons could be had for less than $2000 and the labor, gaskets, oil/filter, etc. are covered under warranty. Throw in another $1500 for cams, honing cylinders to fit pistons, machining pistion heads to set compression, headwork, tuning and miscellaneous supplies; on a unti cost of HP/$$, a bargain and great opportunity. Just a different look at the warranty situation.
A better approach, assuming the dealer will go along with you, would be to work out a deal where the dealer goes through with the replacement of cases and reassembling your stock motor but not install it back in the frame. Buy a 120R through your dealer for $5695 unless you can get a discount; the install labor should be covered under warranty. You will need to cannibalize the required parts from your original motor, like the primary drive (will need the SE compensator and new clutch) throttle body (maybe larger injectors), etc. Install the 120R and get a baseline break in tune.
So, $5695 for the crate motor, plus another $1000 for fuel management, compensator, clutch, miscellaneous supplies/hardware; sell your stock motor for $2500-$3000 and your out of pocket cost is about the same as the above approach for a complete 120R with heads, cams, Lefty bearing, and all other bells/whistlesetc. Granted, in both cases, it will be a "de fanged" 120R but will run strong with much upside for future upgrades as funds become available.
Either approach is more than the cost of a cam upgrade, welding your crank, and intalling the Lefty roller but when you start adding that cost to a Stage III 103" kit, you are halfway there. I know I haven't crossed all the T's and dotted all the I's and left out some details but the availablity of the 120R offers some unique and cost effective opportunities for performance upgrades. Just saying it might be worth thinking through, running the idea by the dealer and putting a pencil to the numbers.
A better approach, assuming the dealer will go along with you, would be to work out a deal where the dealer goes through with the replacement of cases and reassembling your stock motor but not install it back in the frame. Buy a 120R through your dealer for $5695 unless you can get a discount; the install labor should be covered under warranty. You will need to cannibalize the required parts from your original motor, like the primary drive (will need the SE compensator and new clutch) throttle body (maybe larger injectors), etc. Install the 120R and get a baseline break in tune.
So, $5695 for the crate motor, plus another $1000 for fuel management, compensator, clutch, miscellaneous supplies/hardware; sell your stock motor for $2500-$3000 and your out of pocket cost is about the same as the above approach for a complete 120R with heads, cams, Lefty bearing, and all other bells/whistlesetc. Granted, in both cases, it will be a "de fanged" 120R but will run strong with much upside for future upgrades as funds become available.
Either approach is more than the cost of a cam upgrade, welding your crank, and intalling the Lefty roller but when you start adding that cost to a Stage III 103" kit, you are halfway there. I know I haven't crossed all the T's and dotted all the I's and left out some details but the availablity of the 120R offers some unique and cost effective opportunities for performance upgrades. Just saying it might be worth thinking through, running the idea by the dealer and putting a pencil to the numbers.
Last edited by djl; Sep 3, 2011 at 09:56 PM.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,647
Likes: 11
From: Stockbridge, GA (Atlanta)
great plan -- i would go with this or the 113 -- if you go with the SE 120 paln 0n getting $1500 - 2k for the stock motor
If I was in your shoes and had the $$, I would skip over all the Stage whatever builds and pay the difference for the 120R cases and buy the 4.060" cylinders and a set of domed pistons that would allow you to shave the dome and set compression as required for the cams of your choice and build a big, fat, lazy 120" torque monster. Work the stock heads for now, Andrews 54 cams or TMan 555C, remap and have some fun; oh yeah, you will need a clutch; you are looking at a 120TQ/HP motor. Then there is so much more you can do in the future with say a set of mildly worked 110 heads, more cam, larger throttle body/injectors and more pipe but it should tune out OK with what you have now. I would not worry about welding the 4.625" crank. I think the crank, cylinders and pistons could be had for less than $2000 and the labor, gaskets, oil/filter, etc. are covered under warranty. Throw in another $1500 for cams, honing cylinders to fit pistons, machining pistion heads to set compression, headwork, tuning and miscellaneous supplies; on a unti cost of HP/$$, a bargain and great opportunity. Just a different look at the warranty situation.
A better approach, assuming the dealer will go along with you, would be to work out a deal where the dealer goes through with the replacement of cases and reassembling your stock motor but not install it back in the frame. Buy a 120R through your dealer for $5995 unless you can get a discount; the install labor should be covered under warranty. You will need to cannibalize the required parts from your original motor, like the primary drive (will need the SE compensator and new clutch) throttle body (maybe larger injectors), etc. Install the 120R and get a baseline break in tune.
So, $5695 for the crate motor, plus another $1000 for fuel management, compensator, clutch, miscellaneous supplies/hardware; sell your stock motor for $2500-$3000 and your out of pocket cost is about the same as the above approach for a complete 120R with heads, cams, Lefty bearing, and all other bells/whistlesetc. Granted, in both cases, it will be a "de fanged" 120R but will run strong with much upside for future upgrades as funds become available.
Either approach is more than the cost of a cam upgrade, welding your crank, and intalling the Lefty roller but when you start adding that cost to a Stage III 103" kit, you are halfway there. I know I haven't crossed all the T's and dotted all the I's and left out some details but the availablity of the 120R offers some unique and cost effective opportunities for performance upgrades. Just saying it might be worth thinking through, running the idea by the dealer and putting a pencil to the numbers.
A better approach, assuming the dealer will go along with you, would be to work out a deal where the dealer goes through with the replacement of cases and reassembling your stock motor but not install it back in the frame. Buy a 120R through your dealer for $5995 unless you can get a discount; the install labor should be covered under warranty. You will need to cannibalize the required parts from your original motor, like the primary drive (will need the SE compensator and new clutch) throttle body (maybe larger injectors), etc. Install the 120R and get a baseline break in tune.
So, $5695 for the crate motor, plus another $1000 for fuel management, compensator, clutch, miscellaneous supplies/hardware; sell your stock motor for $2500-$3000 and your out of pocket cost is about the same as the above approach for a complete 120R with heads, cams, Lefty bearing, and all other bells/whistlesetc. Granted, in both cases, it will be a "de fanged" 120R but will run strong with much upside for future upgrades as funds become available.
Either approach is more than the cost of a cam upgrade, welding your crank, and intalling the Lefty roller but when you start adding that cost to a Stage III 103" kit, you are halfway there. I know I haven't crossed all the T's and dotted all the I's and left out some details but the availablity of the 120R offers some unique and cost effective opportunities for performance upgrades. Just saying it might be worth thinking through, running the idea by the dealer and putting a pencil to the numbers.
