Adjustable Pushrods
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Road Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 907
Likes: 8
From: Greeneville, TN
Adjustable Pushrods
My 2008 Ultra had 18000 miles when a lifter went down. After much research, I replaced the lifters with Black Ops. I chose to go with SE adjustable pushrods. Simple install, no taking the top end apart, just adjust the pushrods and you're ready to ride.
NOT SO FAST! Two of the miserable rock-hard jam nuts broke in half, left me sitting along the roadside.
I changed the pushrods to Andrews adjustables. After riding about 2000 miles, it was hot as blazes in Charleston, SC...here comes the valve clattering. I had it towed to Low Country HD in North Charleston. Those folks treated me great. They had me back on the road within 2 hours. The problem was the jam nuts had come loose, not broken. I had used blue Locktite and tightened them very well, no torque wrench, but tight enough to last 2000 miles. What's up with that?
Have any of you folks had experiences like this? I sure wish I had gone the long way and used the stock pushrods.
NOT SO FAST! Two of the miserable rock-hard jam nuts broke in half, left me sitting along the roadside.
I changed the pushrods to Andrews adjustables. After riding about 2000 miles, it was hot as blazes in Charleston, SC...here comes the valve clattering. I had it towed to Low Country HD in North Charleston. Those folks treated me great. They had me back on the road within 2 hours. The problem was the jam nuts had come loose, not broken. I had used blue Locktite and tightened them very well, no torque wrench, but tight enough to last 2000 miles. What's up with that?
Have any of you folks had experiences like this? I sure wish I had gone the long way and used the stock pushrods.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 3
From: NYC
Sorry to hear this....there's been quite a few stories lately bout things coming loose after a DIY project. Blue locktight, red locktight, torque angles, etc. If your going to do any DIY work, you defineley need both an inch pound and a foot pound torque wrench.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 702
Likes: 16
From: Zebulon, NC
Were the first set the "Tapered" SE adjustables?
I read that they are the ones that the jam nuts break on.
I have Fuelmoto adjustable.....they are Smith Brothers (I think)
They are rubbing on the tubes....I have been thinking about the tapered ones. (unless I can get a little wider tubes somewhere?)
I have about 1000 miles on them, used blue loctite, have not loosened up on me.
I read that they are the ones that the jam nuts break on.
I have Fuelmoto adjustable.....they are Smith Brothers (I think)
They are rubbing on the tubes....I have been thinking about the tapered ones. (unless I can get a little wider tubes somewhere?)
I have about 1000 miles on them, used blue loctite, have not loosened up on me.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,032
Likes: 12,557
From: South Carolina
Had problems with jam nuts coming loose on Crane Timesavers, first time one came loose and I got it shut down in time. Second time (about 10 years later) I did not get it shut off in time, no major damage, just trashed a lifter.
One of the problems with these pushrods is that the wrench flats on the pushrod are not even a proper wrench size, so the wrench will slip, unless you use a ground down adjustable wrench.
I pulled the adjustables and went back to the stock one piece pushrods.
One of the problems with these pushrods is that the wrench flats on the pushrod are not even a proper wrench size, so the wrench will slip, unless you use a ground down adjustable wrench.
I pulled the adjustables and went back to the stock one piece pushrods.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Sep 26, 2011 at 05:58 PM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 12
Ive used the SE tapered adjustables several times and know other guys who have used them also with no problems. You dont need loctite and you dont have to really crank down on the jam nut. Just snug it up good and leave it alone. No special wrench needed. Just two 1/2" wrenches and a 5/16" wrench.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 757
Likes: 4
I had SE tapered that worked well. Got paranoid though from all the SE stories so I bought the FM's. The directions state to use red loctite but I called FM and they said its not necessary. I got them adjusted then put a drop or two on the threads and the face of the jam nut. I couldn't help myself. You can't use a torque wrench on these either so you just need to make an educated guess on what tight is.
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Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 907
Likes: 8
From: Greeneville, TN
Tapered Pushrods
Were the first set the "Tapered" SE adjustables?
I read that they are the ones that the jam nuts break on.
I have Fuelmoto adjustable.....they are Smith Brothers (I think)
They are rubbing on the tubes....I have been thinking about the tapered ones. (unless I can get a little wider tubes somewhere?)
I have about 1000 miles on them, used blue loctite, have not loosened up on me.
I read that they are the ones that the jam nuts break on.
I have Fuelmoto adjustable.....they are Smith Brothers (I think)
They are rubbing on the tubes....I have been thinking about the tapered ones. (unless I can get a little wider tubes somewhere?)
I have about 1000 miles on them, used blue loctite, have not loosened up on me.
I'm suprised at the good feedback about the adjustables, I am still wondering why mine came loose after 2000 miles.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,763
Likes: 2,597
From: san antonio
I have not heard of the Andrews adjsutor nuts coming loose.
There were quality issues with the adjustor nuts for the SE Quick Install Tapered pushrods (PN 18404-08) when they first came out. The nuts would hairline crack from the inside out and come loose, or they would just break in half when tightened. From what I readk the problem was sorted out. I still use them but I machined G8 adjustor nuts that I get from a guy on another forum; he usually has 8-10 sets on hand; they go for $20 plus shipping. They are 3/8" G8 nuts that have been machined to 5/16" wrench size and the same thickness as the OEM nuts. The pushrods are qualty pieces and the kit can be purchased complete with tubes and o-rings fro a reasonable price and they truly are quick install pushrods. Even though the nut problem is supposed to have been sorted out, after having two come loose a couple of years ago, I still use the G8 nuts.
Smith Brothers makes a tapered, quick intall pushrod; probably the best on the market but they are heavier, more expensive and not truly a quick install; very near being a PITA install.
I would not use adjustables unless differences in cam base circle or valve train stack up height did not allow the use of the OEM or Perfect Fit pushrod. It isn't that much more work to raise/remove the tank, remove the rocker covers, loosen the rocker supports and R/R the pushrods from the top.
There were quality issues with the adjustor nuts for the SE Quick Install Tapered pushrods (PN 18404-08) when they first came out. The nuts would hairline crack from the inside out and come loose, or they would just break in half when tightened. From what I readk the problem was sorted out. I still use them but I machined G8 adjustor nuts that I get from a guy on another forum; he usually has 8-10 sets on hand; they go for $20 plus shipping. They are 3/8" G8 nuts that have been machined to 5/16" wrench size and the same thickness as the OEM nuts. The pushrods are qualty pieces and the kit can be purchased complete with tubes and o-rings fro a reasonable price and they truly are quick install pushrods. Even though the nut problem is supposed to have been sorted out, after having two come loose a couple of years ago, I still use the G8 nuts.
Smith Brothers makes a tapered, quick intall pushrod; probably the best on the market but they are heavier, more expensive and not truly a quick install; very near being a PITA install.
I would not use adjustables unless differences in cam base circle or valve train stack up height did not allow the use of the OEM or Perfect Fit pushrod. It isn't that much more work to raise/remove the tank, remove the rocker covers, loosen the rocker supports and R/R the pushrods from the top.