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Tips: Changing bars on touring bikes

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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 11:14 AM
  #11  
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When tightening the clutch cable in the transmission cover, make sure to not over-tighten. If you read the manual, those values are in INCH POUNDS not FOOT POUNDS! And if you don't have an inch-pound torque wrench, just finger tighten enough to mash down the gasket - no more.

Don't make my $100 mistake, heh: 36-60 foot lbs, eh? Well, I know what 40 lbs feels like... I'll just put 40 ... or... so... on.. it.. *SNAP!!* ARGH!! Inch Pounds??!!!

Also, be very careful when threadding that clutch cable into the transmission cover. The angle is not what you expect it to be, so don't cross-thread. A trick I used (after spending like 15 minutes trying to thread the dang thing) was to stick a small screwdriver through the hole and eye-ball the angle that the clutch cable would attach - eye opener.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 11:48 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Jon 2005 Road King
When tightening the clutch cable in the transmission cover, make sure to not over-tighten. If you read the manual, those values are in INCH POUNDS not FOOT POUNDS! And if you don't have an inch-pound torque wrench, just finger tighten enough to mash down the gasket - no more.

Don't make my $100 mistake, heh: 36-60 foot lbs, eh? Well, I know what 40 lbs feels like... I'll just put 40 ... or... so... on.. it.. *SNAP!!* ARGH!! Inch Pounds??!!!

Also, be very careful when threadding that clutch cable into the transmission cover. The angle is not what you expect it to be, so don't cross-thread. A trick I used (after spending like 15 minutes trying to thread the dang thing) was to stick a small screwdriver through the hole and eye-ball the angle that the clutch cable would attach - eye opener.
That's good advice Jon! By the way, your bars look kickass on your sled brotha.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 11:54 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Jon 2005 Road King
Also, be very careful when threadding that clutch cable into the transmission cover. The angle is not what you expect it to be, so don't cross-thread. A trick I used (after spending like 15 minutes trying to thread the dang thing) was to stick a small screwdriver through the hole and eye-ball the angle that the clutch cable would attach - eye opener.
Good point. That clutch cable isn't square to the cover. It's more angled from the inside of the bike towards the outside.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 12:03 PM
  #14  
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I'd be lying if I said I made the choice for comfort first. I loved the look. I had a bike in the past with 18" apes with 2" risers (not a touring bike) so I knew I was comfortable with the height. I can say, after the fact, that I am very comfortable with the PYO Monkey bars. There are tons of tips out there on this board if you search and several members will PM nice sets of instructions. I think just about anyone who has done a set will be happy to share info. Myself included. A digital camera is nice to take pictures of your wiring in the molex connectors. It makes reassembly easier. Also a large paper clip makes a good molex tool. If you go taller definitely get poly bushings.Most of the time you don't have to extend wiring if you are going 12" or below. Just reroute the plugs inside your fairing. Put the bike on a surface about 1" higher than the surface where the jiffy stand is on and lean the bike over. You don't have to drain the tranny to change the clutch cable. Long ball allen wrenches are a big help getting to that cover (you won't have to pull the exhaust on newer bikes) and also pulling the radio.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 12:06 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by JIMSFBL
That's good advice Jon! By the way, your bars look kickass on your sled brotha.
Thanks
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 01:51 PM
  #16  
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Thanks for the write up! I'm still on the fence about swapping bars. I love the FLHX mirrors, and the height of bars I found most comfortable my arms were blocking them. Probably going to pull the trigger anyway.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 02:00 PM
  #17  
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I recently (finally) put 508's on my Road King. No more numbness having to shake my hands/arms awake. Between the new bars and Mustang seat with backrest I am finally completely comfortable. Like already said, not everyone is built the same.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 02:23 PM
  #18  
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When I did mine I didn't remove the gas tank as was stated in OP. Why remove the tank?
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 02:50 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by IAMSWUTIAMS
When I did mine I didn't remove the gas tank as was stated in OP. Why remove the tank?
I believe tank removal is only needed if you have ABS. The module is located under the seat and that's the brake line you'll need to replace is from the bar to that module.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 03:04 PM
  #20  
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Yep abs means removing the gas tank. Another piece of advice i read (my install is waiting another part so it's not personal experience) was to find an old allen wrench of the correct size and cut the hook end closer to longer end. That way you can get to the two tranny inspection cover bolts behind the right side exhaust and wont need to remove the exhaust.
 
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