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I'm finishing up my primary service and could use some advice on how tight to snug the drain plug. 2001 FLHT. The manual has no guidance. I don't want to overtighten for obvious reasons but I have made several turns on the plug and it has not reached it's full travel but i'm a little nervous about snugging more. I have a torque wrench. Does the plug need to be real snug? My torx socket is on a 1/2 drive so i need to be careful.
Thanks
Last edited by noserider; Nov 2, 2011 at 09:25 AM.
Assuming that the drain plug is a NPT, just turn it in there snug. Kinda palm the ratchet and socket - that should be tight enough. If it leaks, give it another 1/4 turn or so until it stops.
I don't know how else to explain it. Pipe threads are a feel thing.
My 02 manual has the torque specs but I don't have it right now. The important thing is not to kill it. If it is real snug then your good. You would be surprised at some torque values. I have set my torque wrench to the lowest torque and then used a ratchet and I couldn't believe how loose it seemed. So just be careful and don't kill the thing. If it's tight it's not going to leak. If you over tighten you will have a bad day next time you try and remove it. I will look at my manual later on today and get back with you if no one else does.
i would also suggest inspecting your "O" ring seal, and not a bad idea to keep a few around for when you end up tearing one when doing an oil change, in the three holes= crankcase oil, primary oil, and trans oil. in 02 i think there were two different sizes, but later models went to a one size 'o' ring that fits all three plugs. i also use anti seize on the threads because you have two dissimilar metals. aluminum or some sort of pot metal for each of the housings and a steel plug. if i'm not mistaken, on your year, 02 the primary drain was the lowest hole near the derby cover. on later models, the hole is in the bottom of the primary case pointing down whereas yours will be a smaller allen plug that goes in the same direction as your derby screws. use an inch pound torque wrench, 3/8" drive works fine, or even a 1/4" torque wrench. the half inch torque wrench would be like trying to drive a finish nail into moulding with a sledge hammer.
My 2011 service manual page 1-2 says torque is 14-21 inch pounds. That is INCH not foot pounds and your 3/4 torque wrench is way too big as previously stated. Get an inexpensive 1/4 for these jobs.
Last edited by Chunker; Nov 2, 2011 at 10:14 AM.
Reason: add
I stated 3/4 torque drive but should have said 1/2 which is still to big. My year model does not use an o-ring but does call for some locktight pipe sealant with teflon. I replaced the o-rings on my oil and tranny cause they were a little hard. Cheap insurance.
A 2002 does not have an O-ring. The manual says to coat it Locktite Pipe Sealant with Teflon 565. I use Permatex. Install and tighten until 0.160-0.180" above the casting. I screw in very gently until it starts to tighten and then check the height.
You're making too much of this job. In your other thread about this subject, you were told that the plug is tapered and it calls for thread sealant. The plug should tighten against the mating threads. You should feel the resistance. If it leaks, give it a little tweak. Check for leaks. You will not loose all your oil at once. Relax bud. BTW, there is a torque value chart at the beginning of every chapter in the service manual. I would start there.
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