I think he was just busting *****....hence the smiley face. I tought it was a funny post and got a kick out of it.

 

Yeah he can't help it. Still waiting on his dyno sheet showing his 84 ft/lb of torque with his 88" and might TREX pipes

 

You guys are right. Anyone with those pipes must have a sense of humor. I appologize.

 

You can also get great results by buying a set of jugs already bored on e-bay for about $130 to $160 (Sleeps in trees and myself have gone this route) and get the piston kit for about $108, do it your self and get out with 95" for under $300, many on this board have taken this low buck but proven route, just check feedback if you do the ebay route also you can pick up 88" jugs on e-bay for next to nothing and send them to the shop or person of your choice this way if for what ever reason you decide to go back or trade you still have your stock low mileage jugs! Andrews 26G's are most likely the best choice given your riding style, go with a gear drive since your warrentty is over just to avoid the dreaded adjuster shoe failure which if it happens is a very costly failure, Do it your self and come out with 95" and a set of gear driven andrews 26G's for under a $900 Hope this helps some and is just my 2 cents worth of advise.

 

Good posts from Bryan and Phil!

I agree. Do some resarch, call around. You'll do fine.

Maineultraclassic just did this thing w/ Big boys and 26g's. He seems to love his setup! [sm=gears.gif]

 

Jst be sure whoever is boring your cylinders are using torque plates and digital bore guages for best accuracy. Torque plates are a must. If proper boring techniques are used it will dramatically increase the life of your engine, including better ring seal, reduced oil consumption and blow by.

 

The owner of the local indy shop and myself sat down and talked for hours about what I wanted to accomplish, what I wanted to spend, and what was important to me. We talked about builds that he has done for other people, how much they cost, where the torque came in etc, etc. After deciding on what I wanted to spend, to attain the desired results ( basically, this is what we can do for $xx.xx ) we started the build. The final numbers actually exceeded my, and the builders expectations. No complaints there.

I will share this.....

Several of the big companies that sell proven performance packages, claiming a guaranteed 100/100 candidly told me that the increase from 88" to 95" was not that big of a deal, but more of an issue of why would you go that deep, and not go bigger. I asked one company, "You guarantee 100/100 with a 95" kit, what would you be willing to guarantee if I stay with 88" but I use all the other recommended parts in the kit" He said that I could still expect 92-95 hp and 95-98 tq. So, basically to answer your initial question, the 95" increase does make a difference, but the head work, cams, and other upgrades are the heart of the performance.


nogood o~`o

 

Exactly.........if you are going to do cams and take the heads off to be ported............it's only another 8 bolts and the cylinders are off for the 95" upgrade.

1550 flattops can be had for $110 from any dealer running a 20% off sale. Typical price for boring out your stock cylinders is $130. Gear drive cam kits are $533 online. Top end gasket kit is $65, and another $30 for the .030 Cometic head gasket. Head porting starts at $299, then add in $25 for CCing and $70 for milling (if needed).

I did the following build for approx. $1400 in parts, took me about 13 hours of labor. I'm getting it dyno tuned next week, that's another $200 +/-.

1550 Flattops
Cometic .030 head gasket
Big Boyz Ported Heads, cc'ed and milled for 9.6-1 compression
Andrews 26g Cams
SE Quick-Install Pushrods
SE Clutch Spring
SE Triple Platinum Sparkplugs
HD top-end gasket kit

I already had the PCIIIusb, Ness Big Sucker, and Supertrapp 2-1 before this build......that's another $1000 if you don't already have the stage 1 stuff.

Steve

 

With all the engine mod options out there it's difficult to know which parts work best together and what is the best choice. My suggestion would be spending an hour talking to a dyno tuner then plan on spending $250 - 400 to have it dyno tuned when the mods are completed.

One of our group bought new pipes for his TC 88 modded to stage 2 with SE parts. The seller he bought it from claimed it was a 100hp engine with the mods - SE heads, ignition etc. He never felt the bike ran like a 100 hp bike because mine ran away from him. While in Sturgis he took it to Maiko for dyno tuning at the recommendation of the pipe manufacturer. Long story short - the pipes were too restrictive and the SE ignition did not allow for adjustment resulting in poor numbers on the first pull. After a total of 8 runs, removing the new pipes, returning them, getting a different set, adding an new adjustable ignition module and installing a new bigger air filter, Maiko was able to bring the HP from 69 to 83. This engine was modded according to various mfg. engineers recommendations with poor results. His experience made the mods perform to their maximum potential and the owner was very pleased after the tuning.

If you have a component that is not performing to "claimed performance" you now have documented proof and it's easier to get the item returned, upgraded or replaced. The pipe manufacturer reluctantly agreed to exchange the pipes for a different set. Before the proof they balked at reutrning them.

If you're going as far as big bore kit and head mods, why not do the flywheel? I have a stroked EVO that will runaway from most 95's. The total cost increases but you won't be kicking yourself later for not doing it and having to tear it all apart again when you do decide to lighten and balance the flywheel. You'll be glad you did. The surgeon gave me an estimate to remove the permanent smile - I decided to keep it.

Good luck on your mods.