Perhaps, but they also cost much, much more ($C's). As for longevity, the 80/100w bulb in my bike now was in my old RK for several years and has been on my present bike since new (Nov. 2006), so bulb lift isn't an issue here. Of course YMMV.

There isn't anything unique about the pattern on a MC vs. a car and the headlights are interchangeable--as long as they're the right size, of course.

 

just got my e code havent installed yet, got a hella 55/100 bulb,found a plugg and play high heat h4 connector harness at racinglab.com also picked up some yellow passing lamp bulbs,07 uses 881 bulbs but 894 bulb workthey are 37 watts versus the stock 27.5.

 

The plastic melts due to a loose connection not a larger bulb. If the bulb was drawing that much amperage the fuse would blow first. I have 55000 miles on original headlight and bulb. I noticed last week while removing the outer faring to install an amp my headlight plug had begun to melt. Sure enough one of the female push-ons in the plug needed adjustment. Glad i caught it in time. I have had that faring off too many times to count so I place the blame on repeated plugging on-off. Something else to check whenever the faring is off.

 

sylvania does have a 'vibration resistant' version available. it's a couple more dollars, but still a decent deal.

 

If the connection is loose you raise the resistace which pulls more amps....Just a little electrical lesson. The plug melting with hi-output bulbs is normally due to the hi heat within the headlight bucket. I've been dealing with this for years by simply drilling a small vent hole in the back of the housing to allow the heat to excape. I can buy a pair of H-4's from Auto Zone for less than my dealer cost for so called motorcycle H-4's. Theres something wrong with that thinking.

 

The high-heat adapter can't hurt, but I've used the 80/100w bulbs on both my '96 RK and '07 SG for years without any heat-related issues. OTOH two friends that ran the same bulb, one with a '98 Softail and the other with a BMW GS had problems and bought a high-heat connector from Auto Zone. It required some splicing/soldering of the new connector into the existing wiring, but it was a simple solution. It might be worth noting that I also run a modulator which pulses the high-beam at 20-100% 4X/sec., and that reduces the heat considerably in daylight when high-beams are used (100% of the time).

 

In the class 8 trucks they run a 6015H, more vibration resistant then the automotive 6014.

 

Truck-lite L.E.D. 7" Phase 6. Really bright, extremely noticable in daylight and uses way less amperage. Only downside, it's not cheap but well worth the money.
You can purchase from Kuryakyn or do a search on the web for a better price.
It is plug and play

 

Headlight - Silvania H4ST

Aux Lamps - Silvania 880ST

 

Isn't that what i said?