New Motor Mount Stiffness Causes Vibration!
Kevin is an enthusiastic salesman that points out the differences between his and the Velva Ride and other similar urethane units, and based on what I experienced before
(in the first 80,000 miles,) I thought I'd give it a shot. Hopefully will have it Wednesday and will install it Thanksgiving Day. I'll post everything right after.
He points out that the urethane he uses is much harder than Velva's and yet more comfortable because the sleeve isn't "attached" to the urethane. The adjustment comes with an optional extra washer placed between the mount and the big washer we all have under all our front mounts. I explained that with me commuting 20,000 miles a year down here I didn't want to be replacing his mount every 6 months. He assured me that wouldn't be the case, as it would be with units such as Velva. ( We'll see.)
As far as the strain on the mounts, I bumped the driveline forward a bit and got off the bike. I could see on the front plate where the top washer had been vs the 1/8" forward it seem to have skidded. While off the bike and no further pressure on the mounts, I tightened all 3 locations evenly.
The rear mounts still touch the "cup" in the frame, including the third ring on the new isolators. (So did the second ring on the units that I removed as the rubber had worn completely away where it had rested on the frame in that cup, exposing the steel.)
Since I'm waiting for a couple of days now, I thought I'd loosen all the bolts on the brackets and front mount and start the motor and let it find it's 'sweet spot.' Really can't see what I have to lose in trying. Thursday morning I'll go back to starting from scratch anyway!
Last edited by Stiggy; Nov 21, 2011 at 05:41 PM.
The floorboards still carried some vibration which I attribute to the new rear stabilizers still breaking in. So after a short 5 mile ride I inspected the rear bushings and loosened the front mount as I checked the rear units, tightened down the rear first,(they're dead nuts centered BTW,) then tightened down the front.
(As I tightened the rear exhaust flange I noticed a crack developing just beneath the flange on the rear jug (!), so the exhaust system just got pulled for tomorrow morning repair and I'll be checking out the vibration, or lack thereof, tomorrow afternoon.)
First impressions of Stabo: Wow! The lack of the handlebar vibration was awesome.
With the rear biscuits softened up, I've got my old bike back better than before! If this thing last 20,000 miles I'll be a happy camper.
Thanks again for all the help and opinions everyone!
The floorboards still carried some vibration which I attribute to the new rear stabilizers still breaking in. So after a short 5 mile ride I inspected the rear bushings and loosened the front mount as I checked the rear units, tightened down the rear first,(they're dead nuts centered BTW,) then tightened down the front.
(As I tightened the rear exhaust flange I noticed a crack developing just beneath the flange on the rear jug (!), so the exhaust system just got pulled for tomorrow morning repair and I'll be checking out the vibration, or lack thereof, tomorrow afternoon.)
First impressions of Stabo: Wow! The lack of the handlebar vibration was awesome.
With the rear biscuits softened up, I've got my old bike back better than before! If this thing last 20,000 miles I'll be a happy camper.
Thanks again for all the help and opinions everyone!
By eliminating that washer, you preload the block a bit which holds the motor tighter to the frame so to speak, but according to Kevin that might transmit more vibration to the frame / bars, so what's the point? ( Unless a tighter front mount might 'support' the rear isolators in some way?)
I probably won't do it as the motor still pretty much just sits there anyway,
( there's no bouncing at idle like you might get on a Dyna chassis,) and I'm all about the 'smooth.'
Again though, it blows me away that the handlebars at cruise speed just stopped vibrating - completely. That's even more obvious because the floorboards still shook which made the compairison so obvious.
I am so looking forward to a ride this afternoon so I can learn more about how it's working and I want to thank you again, fabirk8r for turning me on to the folks at StaBo!
Just finished my new improved improvised exhaust system rebuild and took the bike out for 35 miles of varied country riding. Tracking is still dead on, handlebars are still quiet and now at 3000 to 3500 rpm, everything is smooth, floorboards included. ( Wasn't like that yesterday morning.)
I'm hoping that the isolators will continue to settle down and will report as they do.
Its weird for me too because the bike had no vibration for the first 11 years of it's life and the vibration doesn't seem to be anything related to the motor directly, ( crank runout,) because as I said the vibes are now gone over 3,000. We'll see!
Just finished my new improved improvised exhaust system rebuild and took the bike out for 35 miles of varied country riding. Tracking is still dead on, handlebars are still quiet and now at 3000 to 3500 rpm, everything is smooth, floorboards included. ( Wasn't like that yesterday morning.)
I'm hoping that the isolators will continue to settle down and will report as they do.
Its weird for me too because the bike had no vibration for the first 11 years of it's life and the vibration doesn't seem to be anything related to the motor directly, ( crank runout,) because as I said the vibes are now gone over 3,000. We'll see!
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Since last Sunday I logged just over 400 miles so that maybe seems to be the break in window.
( The exhaust DOES make a difference. The pipe that cracked was a 2 into 1 White Bros 'E' Pipe that did not have equal length headers. The replacement header is an equal length header 2 into 1 Supertrapp - now hooked up to the 'E' pipe muffler. The motor still runs strong, but slightly different. I think I'm going to like it.)
I'll go out again today...
Last edited by John Rocky rococo; Nov 16, 2023 at 11:16 AM.








