Trailering Motorcycle
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 868
Likes: 30
From: western north carolina
MasterBlaster, if you decide on any open trailer. Consider putting mud flaps on the pickup,or make some-kind of shield for the front of the trailer out of sheet metal. I have a 6x12 that I haul my 4 wheeler on for hunting and its hard to keep the paint and marker lights on the front corners. I have seen 1 of your bikes and there is no sign of dirt on it......go enclosed, safer for the bikes, install shelving for gear and tools.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: connecticut
If money allows i would definitely go with an inclosed with ramp door. I have a 7x10 and can fit my rg and an ultra side by side with room for extra supplies. I tow it with a nissan xterra so i highly doubt youll have problems. Someone mentioned putting some type of protection on the front of an open trailer if you go the route, i would recommend you do that. The wheel chock from harbor freight does work nicely as well. Thats what i use in my enclosed and with their 20% off coupon theyre about $30 each. Good luck in your decision
Here's a link to a thread in a different forum.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/hacke...ml#post9055366
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/hacke...ml#post9055366
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 78
Likes: 1
From: Hinesville, Ga.
sandblasting
Remember riding without a windshield, and being sandblasted when you got too close to a vehicle in front of you.
Consider that on an open trailer the bike is being sandblasted all the way there.
You'll feel better knowing its inside.
Consider that on an open trailer the bike is being sandblasted all the way there.
You'll feel better knowing its inside.
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 2
From: scurry, TX
I use this DropTail trailer. I love it. Very easy to load and stands up for storing when not in use. It is, however, very heavy and takes two of us to stand it up. High quality and made in USA.
http://www.droptailtrailers.com/cruiser.html
http://www.droptailtrailers.com/cruiser.html
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 744
Likes: 1
From:
The ramp system on that trailer is an accident waiting to happen!
May be fine for dirt bikes but myself I'd never want my Ultra on it.
Like others said, go enclosed.
Sure you can find something used in the 2K range you won't be sorry.
May be fine for dirt bikes but myself I'd never want my Ultra on it.
Like others said, go enclosed.
Sure you can find something used in the 2K range you won't be sorry.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,421
Likes: 108
From: Tennessee
A few points:
One, check the tires and their ratings on the trailer you’re referring to first. More often than not, trailer manufacturers that sell new trailers this cheap put the cheapest tires they can possibly find on them. A “TRUE” 13-inch trailer tire will have a minimum “C” Load Range rating, maximum load rating of about 1,350 pounds (or higher) with 50 PSI inflation.
Some trailer manufacturers will put the cheaper lower load rated tires (passenger car) on their trailers with 35 PSI Max inflation. Like a dear old friend told me one time: “A fellow one can have a $10,000 trailer, but if that trailer has two-dollar tires on it, then that fellow just has a two-dollar trailer”.
Also, for a trip with the distance you’re talking about, you really need at least one spare tire. Being on I-10 with your bikes on a trailer and having to leave them would be a real pisser in my book.
Two, I can’t emphasize enough how much electric brakes can save not only your bacon, but your truck and motorcycles, too. Traveling from South Florida to Arizona, believe me, you’ll greatly appreciate electric trailer brakes going over the Continental Divide and every mile before and after.
I own six serious trailers – goosenecks and hitch type – and all of them are equipped with electric brakes; I would never consider pulling my Road King to the big city without them, much less on a cross country trip and I have (2) dual rear wheeled F350 Fords.
I understand that price, idle trailer time and yard storage space can be huge factors with some folks, but if you can, seriously consider a two axle trailer – open, or preferably enclosed. You’d be surprised what you could pick up on the used market and most of time you’ll get a slightly used trailer with genuine trailer tires and a spare tire to boot. Every trailer I own, I bought used or at auction and paid well below retail price and only one didn’t come with a spare tire.
Just food for thought…
One, check the tires and their ratings on the trailer you’re referring to first. More often than not, trailer manufacturers that sell new trailers this cheap put the cheapest tires they can possibly find on them. A “TRUE” 13-inch trailer tire will have a minimum “C” Load Range rating, maximum load rating of about 1,350 pounds (or higher) with 50 PSI inflation.
Some trailer manufacturers will put the cheaper lower load rated tires (passenger car) on their trailers with 35 PSI Max inflation. Like a dear old friend told me one time: “A fellow one can have a $10,000 trailer, but if that trailer has two-dollar tires on it, then that fellow just has a two-dollar trailer”.
Also, for a trip with the distance you’re talking about, you really need at least one spare tire. Being on I-10 with your bikes on a trailer and having to leave them would be a real pisser in my book.
Two, I can’t emphasize enough how much electric brakes can save not only your bacon, but your truck and motorcycles, too. Traveling from South Florida to Arizona, believe me, you’ll greatly appreciate electric trailer brakes going over the Continental Divide and every mile before and after.
I own six serious trailers – goosenecks and hitch type – and all of them are equipped with electric brakes; I would never consider pulling my Road King to the big city without them, much less on a cross country trip and I have (2) dual rear wheeled F350 Fords.
I understand that price, idle trailer time and yard storage space can be huge factors with some folks, but if you can, seriously consider a two axle trailer – open, or preferably enclosed. You’d be surprised what you could pick up on the used market and most of time you’ll get a slightly used trailer with genuine trailer tires and a spare tire to boot. Every trailer I own, I bought used or at auction and paid well below retail price and only one didn’t come with a spare tire.
Just food for thought…
Last edited by Night Crawler; Nov 26, 2011 at 12:22 PM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 3
From: Sevierville, TN
I vote for a good enclosed trailer also. Nothing worse than traveling in bad weather knowing you will be spending hours cleaning it when you arrive. Plus you know when you arrive you will have no nicks in the paint is also a plus. Been there done that and an enclosed trailer is the best route by far.
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: Weston, MO
I vote enclosed, but if funds don't allow, definitely get a full width 10 ft utility trailer with a drop gate that is a ramp, you can usually get em for less than 1000 new and make it work for the bike with the wheel chocks.
That other trailer, at best would work, but it would be a royal pain to load, and pretty useless for anything else.
The utility trailer is useful for more than towing bikes, and it's cheaper.
My plan one day is to get an enclosed trailer with a sleeper in the front, keep everything locked up and safe.
That other trailer, at best would work, but it would be a royal pain to load, and pretty useless for anything else.
The utility trailer is useful for more than towing bikes, and it's cheaper.
My plan one day is to get an enclosed trailer with a sleeper in the front, keep everything locked up and safe.