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I just re read your first post..... might I suggest, if you aren't already locked in to the 97 inch build...... a 95 inch build on an 88 properly done is really reliable, and really REALLY gutsy. I had a 95 build on my 05 Road Glide, and it was for lack of a better phrase.... SCARY FAST
That thing would straighten your arms fast. I put 60,000 miles on it, and only had to do the normal fluid changes and such.
With a SE intake and SE active performance exhaust it sounded like a Ferrari when accelerating.
180?!? LOL! Maybe that's "ideal" but my SRT-8 had a bullet-proof cooling system, plenty of underhood cooling (functional hood scoop) and room, stock exhaust manifolds, high-flow cats and a custom tune, 180 degree t-stat and oil temps once warmed up were NEVER below 200 degreess.
Originally Posted by shooter5074
With a SE intake and SE active performance exhaust it sounded like a Ferrari when accelerating.
Corvette maybe but I have NEVER heard a Harley compared to Ferrari!
Originally Posted by nytryder
Nothing wrong with oil temps in the 240-260* range. Especially with synthetics. HD claims that their fossil oil is good to 300* I would wrather my temps be a little high than low.
I think many cars go into limp mode at around 280 degrees.
Moco says normal opperating temps are 180-220.
However the newer bikes are running much higher and hotter than that.
Local dealer says the 96 inch and bigger motors are running 300+ and that's not uncommon.
I would venture to say that is why they made the power pak(103's and above) with an oil cooler stock, which to me is admitting that their bikes are running too hot.
However, I think that way too hot and as such installed an Oil Bud Cooler in my 09. They guarantee a 35 degree drop in temp and they do all that and then some.
They are pricey but offer the biggest oil cooler on the market and it fits tucked up in your frame and is virtually bullett proof, and I do not work for them either.
Last edited by lionsm13; Dec 24, 2011 at 07:08 AM.
My dealer told me any temps up to 260F were acceptable... not sure how hot mine runs, as I don't have an oil temp gauge yet, but plan on adding that at my next oil change.
That is a high compression cam, so the motor makes more heat every cycle the pistons squeeze an air fuel charge, so it is beneficial to cool the heads to prevent detonation and tune to the most possible timing advance to get the max power out of it. I too spoke with Mr. Woods when I was looking for the optimum CHT as a goal for my cooling project, He told me 260-280 CHT is very good, and keeping it 260 or below is excellent. I've been experimenting with some low power, low profile cylinderhead cooling fans and I can tell you without reservation that parade type fans have a greater overall cooling effect on both CHTs and oil temp, than an oil cooler does, even the fan assisted models. Oil coolers only do a little to cool the heads, and oil temperature is not a good indicator of CHTs because of the big difference in thermal transfer rate, but CHTs are generally way higher than oil temp. So the guys saying that 260-300 are acceptable oil temps aren't necessarily wrong but they arent right either. The bike will still run, but I assume since you are doing cam work you want it to do more than just run. BTW there is no conventional(dinosaur/mineral/whatever) oil that will sustain 300F operating temperature. I would encourage you to go with Mr. Woods recommendation and add an oil cooler. You will get a lot of opinions on this topic, but take from a guy who has been actively engaged in cooling projects for over 4 years, supplimental cooling is a good thing with an air cooled motor. Have a great Christmas.
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