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I GOT THE E Z GAGE very acurate locks on . you can add air with gage locked on the valvestem then use the relees button to drop a few psi if you over shot.
So do I, and it's a good accurate gauge. However I don't find it "easy" to get on the front valve stem. By the time I dick around checking air, I have let enough of it out to require that I hook up my little 12V air pump.
In fact, I prefer the little portable air pump to anything else. It clamps on to the valve stem, has it's own built-in pressure guage, and you simply plug it into a cig lighter plug or rig your own plug, and your tires are inflated to your satisfaction, quickly. I keep a battery box in the garage that has a cig plug built into the case. I have a large air compressor but I simply do not have to use it anymore for the tires (thank goodness).
Here is representative picture of what I use. It's not exact, but very close. I also carry it in on the bike in case of trouble out on the road....I can plug it right into the 15A cig plug in the tool pak so I have "air to go"... I think I got mine in a "Slime" kit at Walmart. The air gauge is surprisingly accurate.
Tire inflation is extremely important, not only from the safety angle, but from a tire wear and control element as well. I will also be installing angled valve stems at my first tire change.
I use the same old chrome Milton tire pressure gauge w/pocket clip that we used at the gas stations in the '60s and '70s. It's kind of a PITA but once you have the (rear)valve stem at bottom and you're down on your hands and knees, it works OK. if I don't feel like rolling the bike around, I use my Sears (yellow) jack to raise the bike and make things easier. If I jack the bike up for wheel cleaning during its weekly washing, I can check the tire pressure too.
Thanks for the link ! Looks like the sure ticket to me !!
When on the road it's bad enough to have to lay on the ground or to take a bag off ...... but when you burn your hand good on the hot disk once, well that's reason enough for me to get these.
Smart move.
Believe me, I've bought all the hose extensions and snake oil type gauges available. None of them solve the problem which is there's no friggin room around and above the rubber valve to attach anything securely without bending it, period.
As always, you get what you pay for.
I don't know what Harley was thinking when they designed the wheel but putting in air is a real pain in the rump until you make some sort of change. Good luck!
As with many things, they were thinking about selling us an expensive HD fix for their design flaw.
Only thing working perfectly, FOR ME, is this. All the hose extensions and gauges that I bought before didn't really help. Replace your valve when you put a new tire on and you'll be glad you did.
The '11 RKC rear spoked wheel has the most pitiful design that affects air checks I have ever seen. Rotor on one side, belt on the other, short stem in the middle of the rim nestled between spokes in a bad way. Stem could have been placed a little off center (like the front) and would have worked fine. Rear tire check: off with the left saddlebag, lay on a drop, best gauge so far is a short pencil gauge ($2 Auto Zone) with a 45 head on it, angle between spokes and belt pulley. Be sure to test the little gauge with a known good gauge when you buy it. Then air chucks will not seat down on the stem (spoke issue), so I then use a Topeak 90 extension (Amazon), connect to Bike pump with gauge on pump, add as needed. You would need to see the stem placement up close to believe it. The punk who designed this should be (fill in the blank). I know people who say "I am not checking that tire psi - don't they do that at the dealer? Ha Ha. I hear Dunlop makes a tube with an angle stem, If so, thats where I will go at tire time. Sorry for the rant.
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