cams
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 8
From: Detroit, the asshole of America
Separate from the 255's vs. the world discussion, what's the maximum safe valve lift at TDC for the stock pistons? I see a couple cams listed as bolt in with values of .208" - .214", is that the limit?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,488
Likes: 30
From: Maryland near DC
I started with a factory 103 stage one bike (flhrc) and wanted to go to stage 2 (add cams) this is how I decided what I wanted in a cam..
1. if possible I wanted to keep the stock push rods ( personal choice) (10%)
2. I wanted to improve low to med rpm power (this is where I drive , and what the motor was designed for) (40%)
3. wanted it to be quite (10%)
4. wanted to maintain reasonable mpg (20%)
5. wanted a cam that would not grossly affect longevity of the motor (15%)
6. wanted it to be a good price (5%)
after researching a bunch of cams I came to the conclusion that the se255 was the best cam for me...there are several cams with similar power profiles and the se255 fit in with them and was cheaper. In my case the price was the item that pushed me to the se255 as the rest of items on the list were available from several cams....for example the woods 555 cam is a good cam with a similar curve as the se255 but it needed to have adjustable push rods installed (smaller base circle) and it can sometimes be noisy also it cost about 25% more than the se255 ( I bought the se255 new off of ebay for $199)
1. if possible I wanted to keep the stock push rods ( personal choice) (10%)
2. I wanted to improve low to med rpm power (this is where I drive , and what the motor was designed for) (40%)
3. wanted it to be quite (10%)
4. wanted to maintain reasonable mpg (20%)
5. wanted a cam that would not grossly affect longevity of the motor (15%)
6. wanted it to be a good price (5%)
after researching a bunch of cams I came to the conclusion that the se255 was the best cam for me...there are several cams with similar power profiles and the se255 fit in with them and was cheaper. In my case the price was the item that pushed me to the se255 as the rest of items on the list were available from several cams....for example the woods 555 cam is a good cam with a similar curve as the se255 but it needed to have adjustable push rods installed (smaller base circle) and it can sometimes be noisy also it cost about 25% more than the se255 ( I bought the se255 new off of ebay for $199)
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 747
Likes: 7
From: NY
I started with a factory 103 stage one bike (flhrc) and wanted to go to stage 2 (add cams) this is how I decided what I wanted in a cam..
1. if possible I wanted to keep the stock push rods ( personal choice) (10%)
2. I wanted to improve low to med rpm power (this is where I drive , and what the motor was designed for) (40%)
3. wanted it to be quite (10%)
4. wanted to maintain reasonable mpg (20%)
5. wanted a cam that would not grossly affect longevity of the motor (15%)
6. wanted it to be a good price (5%)
after researching a bunch of cams I came to the conclusion that the se255 was the best cam for me...there are several cams with similar power profiles and the se255 fit in with them and was cheaper. In my case the price was the item that pushed me to the se255 as the rest of items on the list were available from several cams....for example the woods 555 cam is a good cam with a similar curve as the se255 but it needed to have adjustable push rods installed (smaller base circle) and it can sometimes be noisy also it cost about 25% more than the se255 ( I bought the se255 new off of ebay for $199)
1. if possible I wanted to keep the stock push rods ( personal choice) (10%)
2. I wanted to improve low to med rpm power (this is where I drive , and what the motor was designed for) (40%)
3. wanted it to be quite (10%)
4. wanted to maintain reasonable mpg (20%)
5. wanted a cam that would not grossly affect longevity of the motor (15%)
6. wanted it to be a good price (5%)
after researching a bunch of cams I came to the conclusion that the se255 was the best cam for me...there are several cams with similar power profiles and the se255 fit in with them and was cheaper. In my case the price was the item that pushed me to the se255 as the rest of items on the list were available from several cams....for example the woods 555 cam is a good cam with a similar curve as the se255 but it needed to have adjustable push rods installed (smaller base circle) and it can sometimes be noisy also it cost about 25% more than the se255 ( I bought the se255 new off of ebay for $199)
SC
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
What dyno chart? Do we really need more charts in this thread that have been posted in others over the past months? Posting more will undoubtedly get more hisses and boos from the audience, you know, and I'm just now cleaning the tomato parts off my face from yesterday. But it's winter and this happens every year.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Jamie at Fuel Moto told me that although these are "bolt-in" cams, the base-circles are different and he recommends using adjustable pushrods. I always thought "bolt-in" meant you didn't need further mods for installation, but I guess this isn't the case.
Last edited by iclick; Jan 4, 2012 at 03:56 PM.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,763
Likes: 2,597
From: san antonio
As an example, I have run the SE204, intake TDC lift of .208" with heads that had been decked .065" and a .030" head gasket. The more important issue, for me anyway, what was the piston to valve clearance. In this build, it was .040". I would have preferred to see .060" but had decided I could live with .030".
You won't see TDC lifts much higher than the intake lift of the SE204 when looking at bolt in cams. However, once you start looking at cams with .640" or .720" lift, intake lifts can exceed .250".
If larger intake valves are used with OEM pistons, the position of the intake valve relief can become an issue. The relief is usually deep enough but not positioned properly ant the outer edge of the larger valve can kiss the top of the piston. The valve reliefs need to be flycut and moved out toward the outside of the piston.
Once you get away from bolt in cams and start using thinner head gaskets and decked heads, mocking up the top end and checking piston to valve clearance is worth the time and effort.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 747
Likes: 7
From: NY
I read were Jamie mentioned Not needing compression releases with the 555's...I don't suppose it would hurt to have them anyway. So far my mech's advice is matching alot of the good advice I find here. 2 up 25% - solo I like to twist it thru the mid-range. All parts working together...hows this pkg. sound ?
S&S AC - 103 - Woods 555 - TTS - Manual CR - Dresser Duals - Monster Rounds
comments welcome
SC
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,763
Likes: 2,597
From: san antonio
I don't know what the 555 base circle is but just because it is smaller does not mean adjsutable pushrods are necessary. Perfect fits are an option.
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
I would think the 103/555 would be a good match-up, and based on charts posted on the FM site I think it would be a winner. All parts working together...hows this pkg. sound ?
S&S AC - 103 - Woods 555 - TTS - Manual CR - Dresser Duals - Monster Rounds
S&S AC - 103 - Woods 555 - TTS - Manual CR - Dresser Duals - Monster Rounds
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Everyone please note that I checked with Jamie on the base-circle question, and since it is different than stock on the 555 and 777 he recommends using adjustable pushrods so the lifter engagement can be set accurately. I just changed my earlier post so this is made as clear as possible.
Last edited by iclick; Jan 4, 2012 at 11:43 PM.