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Does deleated heel shifter cause abnormal shift-shaft ware??

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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 12:36 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Emdog
I want to remove my heal shifter on my '12 FLTRX simply because I don't use it and I would like the extra room. I removed it on my last EG and had to replace the shift-shaft seals at aprox 10K miles. So my question is...does not having it on cause abnormal ware in the shaft?? Its not That big of a deal to keep it if removing it is going to cause added ware. Am I over thinking this? I tend to do that.
If you want to get rid of that heel shifter. PM me. I would like to have it. Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 01:55 AM
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Do you need the cap if you remove the heel shifter? Can't you just move the toe shifter to the outermost position?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 02:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ReidRik_Von
Do you need the cap if you remove the heel shifter? Can't you just move the toe shifter to the outermost position?
No, 'cause there'll be nothin' holding the shaft to keep it from moving back & forth in the boss.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 07:39 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by OLD 96
If you want to get rid of that heel shifter. PM me. I would like to have it. Thanks.
PM me your address, I have an extra I will send you.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 07:58 AM
  #15  
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Check out Pingels website. I have no heel shiftter on my Trike, but did install the greasable shaft and spacer that they offer. Tanny shifts like glass.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 09:15 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Buddy WMC
Check out Pingels website. I have no heel shiftter on my Trike, but did install the greasable shaft and spacer that they offer. Tanny shifts like glass.
Hey buddy do us a solid and give us a link to that greasable shaft, a google of Pingel send me down a rabbit hole and a link would save a bunch of time....thanks Tucci
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 09:25 AM
  #17  
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http://www.pingelonline.com/harley_davidson_acc.htm

The confusing part is that it says "2001 - 2012 FL's and Tri-Glide, 1982-2000 FL OEM Replacement". Not sure what needs to be done on 2001-2012 that makes it not a "direct replacement". It's also $80...anyone tried drilling and putting a zerk fitting where the shaft fits through the primary?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 09:37 AM
  #18  
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I did not worry about a crome cap I marked the shaft
took it out and cut it off and dressed it with a flat file
and put it back together. No heel shifter and no wasted
space on the floor bord
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 10:08 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ReidRik_Von
Do you need the cap if you remove the heel shifter? Can't you just move the toe shifter to the outermost position?
I've given the heel shifter a fair chance on my bike, but I'm done with it. I definitely prefer the toe shifter exclusively. I've ordered one of these spacers to locate the toe shifter on the outside of the shaft.

http://bitchinbaggers.com/products/h...ft-eliminator/
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 10:45 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Nirvana
I've given the heel shifter a fair chance on my bike, but I'm done with it. I definitely prefer the toe shifter exclusively. I've ordered one of these spacers to locate the toe shifter on the outside of the shaft.

http://bitchinbaggers.com/products/h...ft-eliminator/
I like that one and its priced right for me so im ordering. I especially like that it fits over the rubber spacer. If your used to drilling and tapping you could easily put a zerk on the shaft hump channel. Im going to practice on various items until im comfortable doing it. By looking at the aftermarket arm with the zerk, i wasnt aware the shift arm on the back side is removable and yet if it replaces the oem it apparently is. I dont like a grease zerk on the back end of the shaft, it would be better placed in the center of the shaft hump channel.
 
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