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Yep...yellow to orange/red w/$.02 connector = $29.93 saved. Pretty simple b/c you gotta have the outer off to plug this $30 harness in anyway, I'm guessing.
And just so I am sure, doing the above wiring diagram way is OK to do if you use the ACCY switch already? What is run thru that switch is a very low amp draw deer whistle. I KNOW, KEEP YOUR WHISTLE COMMENTS TO YOURSELF!!! Wife bought it, makes her feel better, I put it on, end of story. Happy wife, happy life.
Kris
If you don't use the acc switch for anything you can switch the orange acc wire and the yellow low beam wire in the fairing cap/ switch housing connector. No splicing and can be returned to stock any time. I've done a couple of bikes that I didn't have to remove any parts, just fish the connector out of the right side of the switch housing.
I switched the orange/red from the acc. switch and the yellow from the spot lights. It's the cat's azz. I did not have to remove the fairing, only the fairing cap (the plastic part where the switches live). I do not use my acc. switch for anything. I also taped a note inside the fairing cap telling what I did and why (getting forgetful). So thanks for the tip DuraGlide, you saved me $30.
I cannot understand why they would design the new wire harness so that the Aux lights are on if the switch is on with the ignition on Accessory. I normally ride with my Aux lights on all the time and often turn the ignition switch to directly to accessory to listen to the radio while I am stopped so unless I remembered to turn the Aux switch off or noticed that the lights are on the battery would be needlessly draining.
This is from the Instruction Sheet for the wire harness:
Turn the ignition key switch to ACCESSORY. The headlamp should turn OFF. Operate the auxiliary lamp switch on the fairing cap ON and OFF. The auxiliary lamps should turn ON and OFF with switch operation.
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