SE Compensator
Thanks...need to get the shop manual out and take look at that.
#12 is the comp. #18 are the cone spring washers.http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....dmc&A=736&B=21
Mine did fine until had it a well over a year and 30K Miles .. Gave me plenty of warning, was a month before went to the SE Compensator after it started clanging on hot start ups .. If not giving you any problem wouldn't worry about it til it does ..
It doesn't just let loose, just gets a loud clunk that gets louder over time when starting or shifting into 1st gear. May slip from time to time when you start the bike giving the impression of a bad starter or bad battery.
Changed mine out recently, major difference with easier starting and smoother shifting.
Good luck !
Changed mine out recently, major difference with easier starting and smoother shifting.
Good luck !
Also, there is nothing in the old comp which should generate a sudden failure. Once the banging and slapping around start, the mounting bolt is prone to slowly loosen and if it falls out, that could leave you stuck. I changed my comp at 15,000 miles but I had all the symptoms, the bang on start, the "box of rocks" noise from the primary and lots of vibration at lower rpm. The new comp made my machine better than new. It now has over 41,000 miles and I have no regrets, still smooth and quiet.
The reports of fretting began showing up when I had around 35,000 miles and I took mine apart and inspected. There was some fretting so I did the groove thing you can find out about on the net and all has been well since. I have no plans to do a further inspection unless some new symptoms suggest the need.
The reports of fretting began showing up when I had around 35,000 miles and I took mine apart and inspected. There was some fretting so I did the groove thing you can find out about on the net and all has been well since. I have no plans to do a further inspection unless some new symptoms suggest the need.
http://harleytechtalk.org/htt/index....i3890nlsadj4q0
Since nobody has responded about the wheel bearing question, I will give my input. I had to have a front wheel bearing changed out on my 07 Fatboy when it had less than 10k on it. I knew it was bad becasue it started making a very audible howling sound when slowing down. I have 16k on the new one and it is nice and quiet. Many peolple shorten the life of their wheel bearings by spraying high pressure water at them when washing the bike. Do NOT do this. Just avoid sraying this area. I've heard it can cause issues. This is less of a problem on the back wheel because it's usually harder to get the spray in there.
Don't mean to hyjack the thread...but...
Wheel bearings already? This is my first HD bike...is there a known problem that the wheel bearings need changing at 15-20K? I got almost 10 on my 12 Limited...
Oh yeah...since am I am asking dumb questions already...what exactly does the compensator do? I know it is in the primary... I do not think my other bikes had a compensator...or maybe it was called something else...
Wheel bearings already? This is my first HD bike...is there a known problem that the wheel bearings need changing at 15-20K? I got almost 10 on my 12 Limited...
Oh yeah...since am I am asking dumb questions already...what exactly does the compensator do? I know it is in the primary... I do not think my other bikes had a compensator...or maybe it was called something else...
" In my opinion "the groove thing" won't help the lack of oil to the SE Compensator clutch ramps, which causes the fretting. Here is a very good thread on the subject:"
Read some of that thread, all interesting, but they seem overly concerned about balance.
Your description "clutch ramps" has me a bit uncertain to what you refer. If it is the cam/spoke rub area, my comp showed some uneven wear in that area. I also put some radial grooves in the spokes from the hub side of the wear area extending 1/2 into the wear area so that lube could be slung into, but through the wear area. The extreme strength of the spring pack also made me decide to use an EP lube (gear lube rather than engine oil or the Harley chain case lube.) So far, no adverse results with clutch action or new noises from the primary.
Read some of that thread, all interesting, but they seem overly concerned about balance.
Your description "clutch ramps" has me a bit uncertain to what you refer. If it is the cam/spoke rub area, my comp showed some uneven wear in that area. I also put some radial grooves in the spokes from the hub side of the wear area extending 1/2 into the wear area so that lube could be slung into, but through the wear area. The extreme strength of the spring pack also made me decide to use an EP lube (gear lube rather than engine oil or the Harley chain case lube.) So far, no adverse results with clutch action or new noises from the primary.
Good info...
On the comps is there certain years that gives more problems that others 07-10 for example?
Looks like a good oil may be very important here also... More going on in that primary than I realized.
I guess I can see where high pressure water would take out the wheel bearings. That is something that can be watched as I check air in the front tire.
I used to loose steering neck bearings all time in the motocross bikes...due to water from washing.
Thanks for the info
On the comps is there certain years that gives more problems that others 07-10 for example?
Looks like a good oil may be very important here also... More going on in that primary than I realized.
I guess I can see where high pressure water would take out the wheel bearings. That is something that can be watched as I check air in the front tire.
I used to loose steering neck bearings all time in the motocross bikes...due to water from washing.
Thanks for the info






